Houseplant · Asparagaceae
Foxtail Fern
Asparagus densiflorus 'Myers'
Offer it bright indirect light and a pot that drains, and the forgiving foxtail fern rewards you with plumes like green bottle brushes.
Bright indirect
Every 7–10 days
50–77°F · 10–25°C
USDA 9–11
Overview
The foxtail fern catches nearly everyone out with its name, and that is part of its charm. It looks soft and feathery, yet a fern it is not. Its home is the asparagus family, and rather than spores it puts out flowers, forms small red berries, and comes up from seed. The 'Myers' form raises firm, upright plumes that narrow to a point, every one a chunky green bottle brush.
The reason it makes such a forgiving houseplant lies underground. Hidden below the soil are fleshy tuberous roots that hold water, so a forgotten watering here and there troubles it far less than it would most plants, and that is genuinely reassuring for a beginner. It asks only for bright indirect light and a pot that drains well. Given room, the clump grows wide and full, which is why it looks so at home spilling from a hanging basket or over the edge of a stand.
There are a couple of things to stay mindful of, and both are easy to manage. The plant as a whole is mildly toxic to cats and dogs, with those bright berries the biggest concern, and the sap can leave bare skin itchy. In frost-free places it also slips out of gardens and naturalizes, so in warm climates it is far happier kept in a pot and up out of reach than planted loose in a bed.
Care
The short version: bright indirect light, a free-draining pot, and water only once the top few centimeters of soil have dried. Feed it monthly through spring and summer, keep it comfortably warm, and divide it when the tuberous roots begin to lift it out of the pot. None of it is hard to get right.
Light
Set it in bright indirect light, the sort you find beside a window that catches sun without the fierce midday glare. It happily takes partial sun and a touch of shade, and only when light runs really short do the plumes turn thin and pale and new growth slow down.
Water
Reach for the watering can only once the top few centimeters of soil have dried, which usually lands around every 7 to 10 days. Those tuberous roots keep their own reserve, so a little drying between drinks is just what it likes, whereas soil left constantly wet is what rots the roots. Pull back through winter as growth eases off.
Soil
Settle it into a well-draining loamy potting mix that lets water pass through instead of pooling. Aim for a pH between 6.0 and 7.0, close to neutral, and it will be content. Free drainage counts for more than anything else here, because waterlogged roots are the quickest way to lose the plant.
Temperature
Everyday room warmth of 50°F to 77°F (10°C to 25°C) is right where it wants to be. It won't take frost, so keep it clear of cold windowsills and winter drafts and it will stay comfortable.
Humidity
It is at its best with moderate humidity, around 40% to 60%, though it takes ordinary indoor air in its stride and won't fuss. Should the plume tips brown in a dry, heated room, simply lift the humidity close by.
Feeding
Give it a balanced water-soluble fertilizer once a month from spring through summer while it is putting on growth. Hold off through the colder months when it rests, and rinse the pot through every so often so feeding salts don't gather.
Pruning
Snip spent or yellowed plumes right at the base to keep the clump tidy and coax out fresh upright growth. Worn or damaged stems can be cut back hard in spring to give the plant a fresh start. Do wear gloves, as the sap can irritate skin.
Repotting
Move it into a new pot every 2 to 3 years, or a little sooner once the swollen tuberous roots begin nudging the plant up and out. Other giveaways are roots winding around the container and water slipping straight through without soaking in. Spring is the moment for it, and it pairs well with dividing the clump.
Size & spacing
Indoors it climbs to 24 to 35 inches (60 to 90 cm) tall and reaches wider yet, 3 to 4 feet (90 to 120 cm) across. Leave the clump space for its plumes to arch outward, which is just why a stand or a hanging basket suits it so well.
Troubleshooting
Your foxtail fern is good at telling you what it needs, showing it in the plumes well before the whole plant is affected. Yellowing, shedding, and brown tips each lead to a different, manageable fix. Find what matches yours below and make the small change early.
When the plumes go yellow all over, take heart
If yellow is creeping across the whole plant, the likeliest reason is too much water sitting around the tuberous roots, and that is something you can turn around. Thin light or a plant that hasn't been fed in a while can bring on the same fade. Wait for the top few centimeters of soil to dry before your next watering, shift it to a brighter corner, and pick monthly feeding back up as it grows.
Fix:
- Allow the top few centimeters of soil to dry before watering
- Move to a brighter spot with bright indirect light
- Resume monthly feeding during the growing season
Little needle leaves on the floor are easy to fix
When a foxtail fern dries out too far, it lets go of its fine cladodes to protect itself, and a fresh move or a cold draft can set off the same shedding. The good news is that a thorough drink and a calm routine usually settle it. Keep it clear of drafts and warm vents, give it bright indirect light, and the drop tapers off.
Fix:
- Water thoroughly and maintain a consistent moisture cycle
- Keep the plant away from cold drafts and heat sources
- Provide steady bright indirect light
Crispy tips are cosmetic and simple to ease
Dry indoor air is what usually leaves you with browning tips, though soil that goes too dry or a slow buildup of feeding salts can singe them as well. Lift the humidity near the plant and keep the soil evenly moist while it is growing. Now and again, pour plain water through the pot to rinse away the salts that gather from fertilizer.
Fix:
- Raise humidity around the plant
- Keep soil evenly moist during active growth
- Flush the soil periodically to leach excess salts
Toxicity
This one is best grown up and away from pets, and that small bit of planning is all it takes. The sap and the eye-catching red berries are where the trouble lies, listed by the ASPCA under Asparagus Fern as toxic to cats and dogs, and the same sapogenins are reason enough to keep it from horses, rabbits, and grazing stock too. People aren't meant to eat any of it either, the berries are mildly poisonous, and the sap can raise a rash, so reach for gloves when you prune.
Toxic to
Cats · Dogs · Horses · Rabbits · Livestock · Birds · People
Cats Moderate
The ASPCA lists the sapogenins here as toxic to cats, so a little care goes a long way. Should a cat sample the red berries, you can expect vomiting, a tender tummy, and loose stools, and repeated brushing against the foliage may leave its skin reddened and sore.
Dogs Moderate
For dogs the picture mirrors that of cats. Berries chewed down bring vomiting, diarrhea, and belly pain, and going back to the cut stems again and again can stir up an itchy dermatitis.
Horses Caution
No horse-specific case has been recorded, yet the very sapogenins that upset a pet's stomach make this one to keep a horse clear of. Take the simple precaution of not letting it graze the foliage or any fallen berries.
Rabbits Caution
For a rabbit, it is best considered off-limits. Both the berries and the sapogenin-carrying plant tissue can unsettle the gut, so it helps to set the pot and any dropped fruit somewhere well out of reach.
Livestock Caution
Goats, sheep, and cattle would meet the same toxin if they reached the foliage or the ripe red berries. A simple fence or a spot beyond browsing range keeps them safe.
Birds Caution
Out in the wild, birds eat the berries and carry the seeds off unharmed, which is exactly how it spreads, but it is kind to keep a pet bird from pecking the fruit indoors. Just position it away from cage birds and you are covered.
People Caution
None of this plant is meant to be eaten, and since the red berries are mildly poisonous if swallowed, it is worth guiding curious children away from them. Bare hands on the stems and sap can raise a rash, so slip on gloves before you prune or repot and you will be fine.
Wear gloves when pruning or repotting, as repeated skin contact with the sap can cause allergic dermatitis.
Helpline numbers
United States
ASPCA Animal Poison Control: (888) 426-4435 (fee applies)
Poison Control: (800) 222-1222
Canada
Poison Centres: 1-844-764-7669
Varieties
Two forms of Asparagus densiflorus show up under the asparagus fern name, and they could hardly look more different. Once you can tell them apart, you will know at a glance whether yours stands tall or trails.
Asparagus densiflorus 'Myers'
This is the genuine foxtail, sending up crowded upright plumes that narrow to a point and mimic a bottle brush almost exactly.
Asparagus densiflorus 'Sprengeri'
This is the common asparagus fern, cascading in loose, arching, trailing stems rather than holding the firm upright plumes you see on 'Myers'.
How to propagate
Making more foxtail ferns is well within reach: split a clump for the quick way, or sow the seed from its berries for the slower one.
DivisionEasy
Spring or early summer at repotting · 4 to 8 weeks
Division is the gentlest route to a few more plants, and it fits neatly with a repot in spring or early summer, so there is nothing to feel daunted by. Ease the plant out of its pot, then cut the plump tuberous clump into sections, checking that every piece keeps some stems and some roots. Pot each division on its own and it will find its feet across the next 4 to 8 weeks.
SeedModerate
Spring · Several weeks to germinate, months to reach size
Seed is the slower path, and a bit of patience is all it really needs. Come spring, work the seed free from the ripe red berries with gloves on, since the fruit can bother skin, and press it into a warm, moist mix. Germination tends to arrive over several weeks and comes up unevenly, and the young plants want months more before they gain any real size.
Myths
The foxtail fern is a true fern.
The name leads a lot of people astray. It is not a fern in the slightest, but a relative in the asparagus family, Asparagaceae. Where true ferns multiply by spores, this one blooms, forms red berries, and comes up from seed.
Because it's a fern, it must be safe around pets.
It is neither a fern nor pet-safe. Under Asparagus Fern the ASPCA marks it toxic to cats and dogs, its berries setting off stomach trouble and its sap raising an itchy rash. Give it plenty of distance from animals inclined to chew.