Shrub · Rosaceae
Old Garden Rose
Rosa
Hardy, sweetly scented, and easygoing on their own roots, old garden roses reward you year after year.
Full sun
Every 5–7 days
USDA 4–9
3–8 ft · 0.9–2.4 m
Overview
Old garden roses are the heritage classes introduced before 1867, the gallicas, damasks, albas, and their relatives that gardeners loved long before modern hybrids came along. You will find them hardier and more forgiving than today's florist roses, and many happily shrug off the diseases that keep newer types on a spray schedule. Grow them for the scent every bit as much as the flower.
The classes fall into two friendly camps that shape how you tend the plant. Once-blooming roses like gallica, damask, alba, centifolia, and moss give one generous early-summer flush on old wood. Repeat-bloomers such as bourbon, Portland, China, tea, and noisette keep returning through the season on new growth, and that single difference is all that changes when and how hard you prune.
These are sturdy, good-natured shrubs that ask for less than their reputation suggests, so mistakes here are easy to recover from. Give them sun, decent soil, and a little room for air to move through the canes, and most will settle in and grow on their own roots for decades. The one thing to respect is the thorns.
Care
The short version: give them full sun with good morning light, loose well-drained soil rich in organic matter, a deep weekly soak at the base in the morning, and pruning timed to whether your rose blooms once or keeps repeating, and you will do just fine.
Light
Old garden roses love full sun, best of all with strong morning light that dries the dew from the leaves early. They will accept a little partial shade, but you trade away bloom and invite disease when the canes sit damp. Aim for 6 to 8 hours of direct sun and they will thank you.
Water
Water them deeply in the morning so the foliage dries in good time, which keeps black spot and powdery mildew from taking hold. A soak every 5 to 7 days suits most plants, with a little more in heat or sandy ground. Just skip the evening overhead watering that leaves the leaves wet all night long.
Soil
Plant into loose, well-drained soil worked through with plenty of organic matter. A pH between 6.0 and 7.0, slightly acidic to neutral, is the happy spot. The one thing roses truly won't forgive is heavy, soggy ground, so drainage is worth getting right.
Temperature
These are tough, dependable shrubs, hardy from roughly -20°F to 100°F (-29°C to 38°C) depending on the class. Many old roses take zone 4 winters in their stride, which is part of why they have endured so long. Heat rarely bothers an established plant that gets a steady drink.
Humidity
Ordinary outdoor humidity is nothing to worry about, so there is no number to chase here. Airflow matters far more than the moisture in the air, since still, crowded canes are exactly how black spot and mildew get their start. Space and thin so the breeze can slip through.
Feeding
Feed with a balanced rose or general-purpose fertilizer, beginning when growth begins in spring and again after each flush of bloom. Stop about six weeks before your first frost so the plant has time to harden off. Too much nitrogen only pushes out soft, mildew-prone growth, so a gentle hand is best.
Pruning
Pruning depends entirely on the class, and it is simpler than it sounds. Once-blooming roses flower on old wood, so prune them lightly right after they bloom to tidy the shape and clear away dead canes. Repeat-bloomers can take a harder cut in late winter or early spring before growth starts.
Repotting
Old garden roses are long-lived shrubs and rarely need repotting once they are settled in the ground. In a container, step up a size when you notice roots circling the drainage holes, water running straight through, or stunted growth despite regular watering. Most are happiest planted out for good.
Size & spacing
These shrubs range from about 3 to 8 feet (90 to 245 cm) tall and spread roughly 3 to 6 feet (90 to 185 cm) wide depending on the class. Give each plant room to meet its mature spread so air moves freely and disease keeps its distance.
When to plant
Old garden roses go into the ground dormant rather than from seed, which keeps things simple. Set out bare-root or container plants in early spring once the soil can be worked, or in fall where winters stay mild. The once-blooming classes reward you with a single early-summer flush, while the repeat-bloomers carry on gently into fall.
Northern hemisphere
Southern hemisphere
Typical months for a temperate climate: start earlier in warm zones, later where spring frosts linger.
- Sow: Not typically grown from seed by home gardeners; propagate vegetatively instead
- Plant: Plant dormant bare-root or container plants in early spring after the soil can be worked, or in fall in mild-winter regions
- Harvest: Late spring to summer; once-blooming classes flower in a single early-summer flush, repeat-blooming classes rebloom into fall
Hardiness
USDA hardiness zones: 4–9
Temperature: down to -34°C
Troubleshooting
Most rose trouble shows itself on the leaves first, and damp, crowded foliage is behind nearly all of it, so you have real control here. Spot the early signs and a simple cleanup usually settles things down. Match what you see below, then act before it works its way up the plant.
Black spots ringed with yellow on the leaves
Take heart, because this common problem is black spot, a fungus that hitches a ride on splashing water once leaves stay wet longer than about 7 hours. It usually begins near the bottom of the plant and climbs, shedding leaves along the way. You can turn it around: pick off the spotted leaves, gather up any that have fallen, and give the roots a morning drink so the foliage dries in a hurry.
Fix:
- Remove and dispose of infected leaves and prune out infected canes
- Rake up and discard fallen leaves to reduce spore sources
- Water at the base in the morning so foliage dries quickly
- Apply a labeled fungicide (such as neem oil, potassium bicarbonate, or sulfur) when conditions favor severe infection
Soft white dusting on fresh shoots and buds
If the youngest shoots and buds look dusted with flour, that gentle nuisance is powdery mildew, which settles in where shade and humidity meet at 68°F to 86°F (20°C to 30°C). The tender growth curls and the leaves can go yellow, then brown. Don't worry, you have this: snip out the worst-hit shoots, open the shrub up so air can move, and ease off the nitrogen that pushes out soft, shaded growth.
Fix:
- Prune out and dispose of heavily infected shoots and leaves
- Improve air circulation by thinning and proper spacing
- Wash spores off foliage with a morning water spray
- Apply a protectant or eradicant fungicide at the earliest sign on susceptible plants
Little sticky clusters gathered on buds and tips
Those crowded green, pink, or black bunches on the soft new tips are only aphids, and the sticky sheen underneath is honeydew. They seldom leave any lasting mark, so you can relax. A firm morning spray of water knocks them loose, the lady beetles and lacewings happily clear up the stragglers, and steering clear of broad insecticides keeps those helpful visitors on your side.
Fix:
- Hose aphids off plants with a strong stream of water in the morning
- Tolerate light infestations and conserve natural enemies such as lady beetles and lacewings
- Avoid broad-spectrum insecticides that kill beneficial predators
Toxicity
Good news for pet owners, and a real weight off your mind: true roses are non-toxic to cats, dogs, horses, and every other animal around the home or pasture, and the petals and hips are even edible for people. There is no poison here to fear. The one genuine hazard is mechanical, the thorns, which can scratch a mouth or paw, so the only care you need is a little caution around the prickles.
Safe for
People · Cats · Dogs · Horses · Rabbits · Livestock · Birds
Cats None
You can breathe easy, since true roses hold nothing poisonous for a cat. The only thing worth minding is the thorns, which might scratch an inquisitive mouth or paw.
Dogs None
A dog can nibble a rose with no fear of poisoning at all. The one real worry is a gulped mouthful of thorny stem, where the prickles can scrape the gums or, in a large amount, block the gut.
Horses Safe
Horses can graze roses safely, and many will happily browse the canes on their own. The only thing to keep a friendly eye on is a prickle catching a soft lip.
Rabbits Safe
Rabbits are welcome to nibble the leaves and even the petals without harm. Really, the thorns are the single thing worth a passing thought.
Livestock Safe
Cattle, goats, and sheep get along with roses just fine, and goats in particular love the foliage. Nothing in the plant will poison them.
Birds Safe
Birds have nothing to fear from roses, and plenty enjoy the ripe hips right through autumn. Those hips are simply part of their natural diet.
People Safe
Roses are gentle company for people, and both the hips and petals are edible. A nick from the thorns is the only small thing to watch for.
The plant is non-toxic, but thorns (prickles) can cause mechanical injury to mouths, paws, and skin, and ingesting large amounts of stem material could risk gastrointestinal obstruction.
Varieties
Old garden roses gather into a handful of classes, each with its own habit, scent, and pruning rhythm. These are the ones worth getting to know by name.
Gallica (e.g. Rosa gallica 'Officinalis', the Apothecary's Rose)
You get a sturdy, upright little shrub reaching about 4 feet, dressed in fine prickles and deep green leaves, with wonderfully fragrant flowers arriving in one early flush.
Damask (e.g. Rosa × damascena 'Kazanlik')
This is the arching, vigorous shrub of 5 to 8 feet whose rich scent is distilled for attar of roses, and it is hardy enough to keep you company right down into zone 4.
Alba
If you want an easy one, this tall and nearly thornless rose carries smooth arching canes and soft blue-green foliage, brushes off hard winters, and blooms once a year.
Bourbon
A rewarding repeat-bloomer that flowers on both old and new wood, so you are free to prune it harder before bloom than the once-blooming classes.
Centifolia (Provence or Cabbage Rose) and Moss
You get full, many-petaled fragrant blooms, and the moss types add their own charm with a sticky, scented growth over the buds and stems.
How to propagate
Old garden roses are wonderfully easy to multiply, and most grow well on their own roots without any grafting at all. Pick the method that suits your patience and the shape of your plant, and you can hardly go wrong.
Stem cuttingsModerate
Take softwood or hardwood cuttings from late spring through summer or fall · Several weeks to root; one growing season to establish
Here is the reassuring part: most old garden roses root readily from cuttings and thrive on their own roots, so no grafting is needed. Take softwood or hardwood pieces any time from late spring through fall. They put down roots over a few weeks and simply want one full growing season to settle in.
LayeringEasy
Spring to summer while canes are flexible · One growing season for layered canes to root before separating
For the arching old types, layering is the gentlest, most forgiving route. While the canes are still bendy in spring or summer, pin a low one down to the soil and let it take root right where it lies. Give it a full growing season before you cut it free from its parent.
GraftingDemanding
Dormant season or late summer budding · One season to unite and establish
Grafting is the trickier path, carried out in the dormant season or by budding in late summer. It joins a chosen cultivar onto a rootstock and needs a season to knit together and establish. Take comfort that most old garden roses skip this step entirely and do beautifully on their own roots.
Myths
Roses are dangerously poisonous to dogs and cats.
You can let this worry go, because the ASPCA lists true roses as non-toxic to both dogs and cats, with no toxic principles at all. The only genuine hazard is the thorns, which might scratch a mouth or paw, and a belly full of woody stem could in theory catch the gut. There is simply no chemical poisoning here to fret over.
All old garden roses are fussy and disease-prone like modern hybrids.
Many old garden roses quietly shrug off the pests and diseases that trouble modern hybrids. They often ask for less water and less fertilizer, settle in happily on their own roots, and stand up to cold far better than the newer types, which makes them a kind choice for a nervous first-time grower.