Shrub · Rosaceae
Climbing Rose
Rosa
Tie it up, guide the canes sideways, and a climbing rose will happily drape a wall in bloom.
Full sun
Every 5–7 days
USDA 5–9
6–15 ft · 1.8–4.6 m
Overview
A climbing rose is the plant that turns a plain fence or arbor into a wall of flowers, and you really can do this. It is not a true vine, so do not expect it to climb by itself. The long, stiff canes have no way to grip on their own, which simply means you tie them to a support and gently guide where they go. Give it that structure and, over a few seasons, it can reach 6 to 15 feet (1.8 to 4.5 m) up a wall.
The thing worth understanding first is how often a rose flowers. Some climbers bloom once, in a generous flush in late spring to early summer, while others keep going from June right through fall. That one trait quietly decides when you prune, and getting the timing right is what spares you from losing a whole year of bloom.
Roses have a fussy reputation, but most of the trouble is easy to head off, so feel encouraged. Plant in full sun, keep the water off the leaves, and leave a little space for air to move between the canes, and you will sidestep the black spot and mildew that bother crowded, shaded plants. The thorns are the one steady hazard, so gloves and long sleeves are simply part of the routine.
Care
The short version: give it full sun, water deeply at the base once or twice a week, plant it in rich well-drained soil, and tie the canes to a sturdy support trained sideways for the most bloom.
Light
Climbing roses really want full sun, ideally six or more hours a day. They will get by in part shade, but a shaded plant blooms less and falls to mildew far more readily, so do not feel guilty steering toward the sun. Plenty of sun and open air are your best, easiest defense against disease.
Water
Water deeply at the base 1 to 2 times a week rather than giving frequent little sprinkles. Keep the spray off the leaves and water in the morning so any damp foliage dries quickly, and that simple habit is what keeps black spot from gaining ground.
Soil
Settle your rose into fertile, well-drained loam worked full of organic matter. Roses are happiest in soil that is a touch acidic to neutral, around pH 6.0 to 7.0, with enough compost mixed in to feed the heavy growth these climbers like to put on.
Temperature
Once established, climbers are tougher than they look, riding out winter lows near -20°F (-29°C) and summer heat up to about 95°F (35°C). Match the cultivar to your zone and the plant takes the swings in stride all on its own.
Humidity
Everyday outdoor humidity suits them just fine, so there is no number for you to chase. What matters far more is airflow, because still, damp air around crowded canes is exactly the setting that black spot and powdery mildew love.
Feeding
Feed monthly with a balanced rose fertilizer or compost from spring through summer while the plant is growing hard. Stop by late summer, so you are not coaxing out tender new growth that will not have time to harden before frost arrives.
Pruning
Since the canes cannot cling, tie them to a support and train the mains sideways at 45 to 60 degrees to spread the bloom along their length. Keep about six strong canes and cut the flowering laterals back to 2 or 3 buds. Prune repeat bloomers in late winter while dormant, but wait until right after flowering with once-blooming types.
Repotting
rarely
Size & spacing
A climbing rose grows 6 to 15 feet (1.8 to 4.5 m) tall and spreads 6 to 8 feet (183 to 244 cm) across, so give it a wall, fence, or arbor with honest room to stretch. Space your plants far enough apart that air moves freely between them, which goes a long way toward keeping disease down.
When to plant
Climbing roses are planted while dormant rather than started from seed, which keeps things simple for you. Set dormant bare-root or container plants out in early spring once the soil can be worked, or in fall where the winters stay mild. The biggest flush arrives in late spring to early summer, and repeat types carry on blooming right through the fall.
Northern hemisphere
Southern hemisphere
Typical months for a temperate climate: start earlier in warm zones, later where spring frosts linger.
- Plant: Plant dormant bare-root or container roses in early spring after the soil is workable, or in fall in mild climates.
- Harvest: Heaviest bloom in late spring to early summer (about June), with repeat flowering through fall on repeat-blooming types.
Hardiness
USDA hardiness zones: 5–9
Temperature: down to -29°C
Troubleshooting
Most rose troubles show up on the leaves first, and nearly all of them come back to wet foliage and crowded growth, so they are very catchable. Notice the early signs and you can step in long before a plant sheds its leaves. Match what you are seeing below, then handle it kindly while it is still small.
Dark spots ringed with yellow on the foliage
Try not to panic if you find this. It is black spot, caused by the fungus Diplocarpon rosae, and it gets a foothold whenever leaves stay wet for more than about 7 hours. Gently pick off the spotted leaves, trim any infected canes back below the damage, and tidy up every fallen leaf so the spores have nowhere to wait out the winter. Watering at the base in the morning and giving the canes a little breathing room will set things right, and a sulfur or myclobutanil fungicide is there for you if damp weather keeps it returning.
Fix:
- Remove and dispose of infected leaves and prune out infected canes below affected areas
- Rake up and discard fallen leaves and replace mulch
- Apply a labeled fungicide such as sulfur, myclobutanil, propiconazole, or chlorothalonil when conditions favor disease
A pale dusty film over fresh leaves and buds
That soft gray-white dust on the tender new growth is powdery mildew, and it tends to creep in when the nights turn mild, around 70°F to 80°F (21°C to 27°C), and the plant is sitting in shade. Snip away the worst of the affected shoots and clear out any dead leaves where the spores like to hide. A sulfur spray gives you a hand, though honestly a sunny, open spot with a bit of moving air does most of the caring for you.
Fix:
- Prune out and dispose of heavily infected shoots
- Clean up dead leaves that harbor spores
- Apply sulfur or a sulfur and pyrethrins product labeled for roses
Tiny soft bugs gathering on tender tips and buds
Those crowded little green, pink, or black bodies on the new tips are just aphids, and the sticky shine they leave is honeydew. Take heart, because they are easy to handle: a firm rinse of water early in the morning sends most of them on their way. Try to skip the broad insecticides, since the lady beetles and lacewings that quietly hunt aphids will happily clean up the rest if you let them stay.
Fix:
- Knock aphids off with a strong spray of water early in the day
- Tolerate and encourage natural predators such as lady beetles and lacewings
- Avoid broad-spectrum insecticides that kill beneficial insects
Toxicity
Here is the reassuring part: roses carry no toxins, so they are safe around cats, dogs, horses, livestock, birds, and people, and the hips are even edible. The only catch is mechanical, not chemical. Stiff thorns line the canes and can prick skin, mouths, and paws, so wear gloves and long sleeves when you train or prune, and gently keep pets from gnawing the stems.
Safe for
People · Cats · Dogs · Horses · Rabbits · Livestock · Birds
Cats None
You can relax about poisoning, because the rose itself is non-toxic to cats. The only thing to watch for is the thorns, which can scratch a curious paw or prick a nibbling mouth, so it helps to guide a chewing cat gently away from the canes.
Dogs None
A dog can taste rose foliage without any risk of poisoning, though a mouthful of thorny stem may scratch the gums or tongue. Chewing a lot of woody cane can also leave a dog with a passing tummy upset, nothing more.
Horses None
Horses are welcome to graze roses, since there are no toxic compounds at play. Just keep an eye on the stiff thorns, which can prick a soft muzzle or lips.
Rabbits None
Rabbits can browse rose leaves with nothing toxic to worry about. The sharp thorns are the single thing to mind around their tender noses and feet.
Livestock None
Goats, sheep, and cattle often strip rose foliage with real enthusiasm and come to no chemical harm. The thorns are the only catch, since they can prick lips and mouths during feeding.
Birds None
Roses hold no poisoning danger for birds, and plenty of wild birds feed on the hips through the winter. The thorns simply offer them a safe, prickly perch to rest on.
People Safe
Rose hips are edible and find their way into teas and jams, and the petals are food-safe as well. The thorns are the real thing to respect here, so slip on gloves and long sleeves when you train or prune the canes.
Climbing roses bear stiff thorns on their long canes that can cause mechanical injury to skin, mouths, and paws; wear gloves and long sleeves when training and pruning, and keep pets from chewing thorny stems.
Varieties
Climbing roses come in hundreds of named cultivars, which sounds like a lot, but a handful of trusty classics keep turning up on fences and arbors. These few are worth getting to know by name.
New Dawn
A reliable repeat bloomer that reaches 10 to 15 feet and opens soft shell-pink semi-double flowers, much loved for shaking off disease with ease.
Don Juan
Treasured most of all for its large, fragrant double flowers in a deep, velvety red.
Dublin Bay
A repeat-flowering climber that keeps offering up bright crimson-red blooms all season long.
Climbing Cecile Brunner
A wonderfully vigorous climber that covers itself in clouds of small, light pink buttonhole blooms.
How to propagate
There are a few friendly ways to make new climbing roses, from rooting cuttings to simply pinning a cane to the ground. Each one asks for a little patience, and the method most nurseries lean on is the trickiest of the bunch, so do not feel you have to start there.
Stem cuttingsModerate
Late spring through summer from semi-hardwood growth · Several weeks to a few months to root
In late spring or summer, take 6 to 8 inch tip cuttings from semi-hardwood growth, gently strip off the flowers, and dip the cut base in rooting hormone to give yourself the best shot. Give them time and a little faith, since cuttings can need several weeks to a few months to root.
LayeringEasy
Growing season · One season to root before separating
Those long, bendy canes make climbing roses lovely candidates for layering, which is a forgiving way to start. During the growing season, ease a flexible cane down to the soil, bury a section of it, and let it root while the parent keeps it fed. Be patient and give it a full season before you cut the new plant free.
GraftingDemanding
Summer for budding onto rootstock · One season
Most roses on sale began life this way, with a chosen variety budded onto a tougher, more disease-resistant rootstock. The budding happens in summer and needs about a season to knit, but it is fiddly, exacting work that is perfectly fine to leave to the nurseries.
Myths
Climbing roses cling and climb their supports on their own, the way a vine does.
A climbing rose has no tendrils or holdfasts, so it never grips or twines around anything by itself. Its long, stiff canes need you to tie them to a trellis or fence and guide them by hand, and there is nothing wrong with that. Without your ties, the canes simply flop.
Every climbing rose should get the same hard prune at the same time each year.
The right timing really comes down to the type, so do not worry about getting one rule to fit all. Repeat bloomers are pruned in late winter or early spring while dormant, but once-blooming climbers are pruned right after they finish flowering, because trimming them in spring would remove the very buds that were going to become this year's flowers.