Shrub · Vitaceae
Boston Ivy
Parthenocissus tricuspidata
Grow it for a wall that blazes crimson in fall, just offer it masonry to climb instead of your siding.
Full sun
Every 7–14 days
USDA 4–8
30–49 ft · 9–15 m
Overview
Boston ivy is the vine behind those well-loved sheets of green that deepen to crimson-red and purple every autumn, and it is a wonderfully forgiving plant to begin with. It sits in the grape family rather than among the true ivies, with roots that reach back to eastern Asia. Sturdy and fast growing, it takes cold all the way down to USDA zone 4 and heat that climbs near 100°F (38°C), so it rarely asks much of you.
The way it climbs is what makes it special. Rather than twining, it holds on with adhesive disk-tipped holdfasts that fix themselves to nearly any surface, so one plant can clothe a whole wall on its own. That strong grip is also the one thing to plan around, since it bonds to paint, shingles, and mortar and is hard to remove cleanly, so guide it onto masonry, stone, a fence, or a trellis rather than wood siding and you will both be happy.
Once it has settled in, this is an easygoing plant that forgives the odd slip. It is content in full sun or deep shade, needs little water after it roots, and barely wants feeding. Your main task is simply keeping its vigorous growth in check with one good prune a year so it stays clear of your windows, gutters, and roof.
Care
The short version: settle it into average, well-drained soil in sun or shade, water it through that first season and only rarely afterward, and give it a firm prune each late winter so its quick growth stays off your walls and roof.
Light
Boston ivy is happy in almost any light, from full sun to full shade. Sun gives you the richest fall color, and even in deep shade the vine fills in nicely, though the autumn show comes in a touch softer.
Water
Keep young plants watered while they settle, letting the top half of the soil dry between drinks. Once it is established the vine is very drought tolerant and adapts to most conditions, so a good soak every 7 to 14 days is plenty even in a dry stretch.
Soil
Almost any well-drained soil suits it, clay, sandy, or rocky ground included. It happily takes a wide pH range from 5.5 to 7.5, which is part of why it thrives in so many gardens.
Temperature
This is a truly hardy vine that handles cold to -29°F (-34°C) and heat up to 100°F (38°C). That span covers USDA zones 4 through 8 with no special fuss or protection on your part.
Humidity
Ordinary outdoor humidity suits it just fine, so there is nothing to measure here. Air movement matters more than moisture in the air, since still, crowded growth is what invites leaf spot and mildew.
Feeding
Feeding is seldom needed, since the vine is already so eager to grow. If growth ever seems to lag, one balanced general-purpose feed in spring is all it asks for.
Pruning
Plan on a hard prune in late winter or early spring to keep that quick growth in hand. Cut it back off your windows, gutters, roofs, and wood siding before the new season starts to push out.
Repotting
Most plants go straight into the ground rather than a pot, which keeps things simple. For a container-grown vine, repot every 2 to 3 years, or a little sooner if roots circle the pot, growth stalls, or water runs straight through.
Size & spacing
Given something to climb, it reaches 30 to 50 feet (9 to 15 m) tall and spreads 5 to 10 feet (1.5 to 3 m) wide. Picture that reach and the support it will need before you choose its spot.
When to plant
Boston ivy is woody and perennial, so there is no anxious seed-starting deadline to meet. Set young plants out in spring or fall while the soil is easy to work, let the vine settle in over the seasons at its own pace, and enjoy the quiet June-to-July flowers followed by that lovely crimson-to-purple display in autumn.
Northern hemisphere
Southern hemisphere
Typical months for a temperate climate: start earlier in warm zones, later where spring frosts linger.
- Plant: Spring or fall
- Harvest: June to July (flowers inconspicuous); brilliant crimson-red to purple fall foliage
Hardiness
USDA hardiness zones: 4–8
Temperature: down to -34°C
Troubleshooting
Most of the hiccups with Boston ivy come down to either the wall it is gripping or the leaves it is growing, and both are easy enough to handle. Catch the early signs and you can redirect or treat before anything spreads. Find what you are seeing below, then step in while it still does the most good.
Gripping disks on the wall that lift your paint or shingles
Try not to worry, because this is manageable once you know what to expect. The vine holds on with adhesive disk-tipped holdfasts that cling so firmly they can peel paint and leave residue behind when pulled, and the dense growth can hold dampness against the wall and work its way under shingles and into mortar. Give it masonry, a rock wall, a fence, or a strong trellis to climb, and if you ever need to take it down, cut the stems at the base first and let the disks dry and loosen before you ease them away.
Fix:
- Do not grow on wood, shingle, or painted surfaces; redirect onto masonry, rock walls, fences, or sturdy trellises
- Cut vines at the base and allow holdfasts to dry and weaken before gentle removal
- Scrape or sand off remaining residue and refinish damaged surfaces
Spotted, powdery, or nibbled leaves
These leaf troubles look worse than they are, and you can turn things around with a few easy steps. Fungal leaf spot and powdery mildew tend to show up where air sits still around crowded, damp growth, leaving dark blotches and a pale film, while Japanese beetles, scale, and leafhoppers chew the foliage down to its veins. Open the planting up so air moves freely, water at the base instead of from above, lift beetles off by hand, and ease lingering scale away with a little horticultural oil.
Fix:
- Improve air circulation and avoid overhead watering to reduce fungal disease
- Hand-pick Japanese beetles and treat scale or heavy infestations with horticultural oil or an appropriate insecticide
- Remove and dispose of heavily diseased foliage
Toxicity
This is one to admire rather than nibble. Both the leaves and the blue-black berries carry insoluble calcium oxalate crystals and oxalic acid, sharp compounds that sting the mouth and unsettle the gut. Keep pets, livestock, and children from chewing the foliage or eating the berries, which hold the greater risk, and you will have nothing to fret about.
Toxic to
Cats · Dogs · Horses · Rabbits · Livestock · Birds · People
Cats Mild
If a cat bites into a leaf or berry, those tiny oxalate crystals prick the mouth right away, so gentle signs to watch for are drooling, pawing at the face, and a queasy stomach that brings on vomiting or loose stool.
Dogs Mild
A dog that has chewed the leaves or berries will often drool and turn away from food, and that sore mouth can be followed by vomiting or diarrhea before long.
Horses Mild
Those same crystals leave a horse's mouth and gut feeling raw, so you may notice drooling, mouth discomfort, and a dull, off-feed mood if it grazes the vine.
Rabbits Mild
It is kindest to keep this one out of a rabbit's reach, since the oxalates can sting the mouth and leave a bunny drooling, uninterested in food, and nursing a sore tummy.
Livestock Mild
Cattle, goats, and sheep tend to pass it by, but a stray mouthful of leaves or berries can irritate the mouth and gut and leave an animal salivating and off its feed.
Birds Caution
The blue-black berries carry the most risk here, so it is safest to keep caged birds well away from the plant rather than letting them browse.
People Caution
No part of this vine belongs on a plate. Leaves or berries can irritate the mouth and stomach if eaten, so it helps to keep curious little ones away from the foliage and fruit.
Keep pets and children from chewing the foliage or eating the berries, which are the higher-risk part.
Helpline numbers
United States
ASPCA Animal Poison Control: (888) 426-4435 (fee applies)
Poison Control: (800) 222-1222
Canada
Poison Centres: 1-844-764-7669
Varieties
A handful of named selections swap the plain green for different leaf shapes and colors. These are the ones you are most likely to come across.
Veitchii
Its leaves are on the smaller side and open purple to bronze in spring before settling into red come autumn.
Fenway Park
You will spot it by the golden chartreuse to lime-yellow leaves that shift into a mix of fall colors.
Lowii
This one has small, curly, deeply lobed leaves that warm to crimson when fall comes around.
How to propagate
Boston ivy is a joy to multiply, and you have three friendly routes to choose from depending on your patience and the time of year.
Stem cuttingsEasy
Softwood cuttings in early summer or hardwood cuttings in late fall to winter · 4 to 8 weeks to root
Cuttings are the fastest and friendliest way to grow more of this vine. Take softwood cuttings in early summer or hardwood cuttings from late fall into winter, and you can expect roots in 4 to 8 weeks. If a stem is already resting on the ground, simply pin it down and let it root right where it is.
LayeringEasy
Spring through summer · Several weeks to a few months
Layering may be the most forgiving method of all with this plant. Pin a low stem gently against the soil any time from spring through summer, and it will root on its own over several weeks to a few months before you separate it from the parent.
SeedModerate
Sow after cold stratification in late winter or spring · Several weeks to germinate
Seed asks for a bit more patience, and that is perfectly fine. Clean the seeds from the berries, give them a cold rest to break dormancy, then sow in late winter or spring and watch for sprouts over several weeks. That cold spell is the quiet step that makes it all work.
Myths
Boston ivy is a true ivy.
The name is a little misleading, so do not let it fool you. Boston ivy actually belongs to the grape family, Vitaceae, which makes it a much nearer relative of grapes than of the true ivies in the genus Hedera.