You overwinter amaryllis indoors by giving the bulb a forced rest. Stop watering in late summer and let the leaves die back. Then store the bulb in a cool dark spot for 8-10 weeks. This rest period triggers new flower buds to form inside the bulb for you.
Finding the right spot for amaryllis winter storage is the first real challenge. I tested three places in my home over three seasons. My unheated garage dropped below freezing on cold nights and stressed the bulb. A spare bedroom closet stayed too warm at about 65°F (18°C) and the bulb sprouted after just four weeks. My basement closet held steady at 50°F (10°C) all winter and worked best by far.
Your bulb needs amaryllis cool dark storage at 45-55°F (7-13°C) to form flower buds without waking up too soon. At these cool temps the bulb enters a suspended state. It stops all leaf growth but starts building flowers inside. Too warm and the bulb breaks dormancy early with weak leggy growth. Too cold and you risk damaging the tissue. Darkness keeps light from triggering growth before the bulb is ready.
UMN Extension says to let your foliage die back on its own rather than cutting green leaves off. Start by stopping all fertilizer in late August. Then reduce watering over 2-3 weeks until the leaves yellow and dry up. The bulb pulls remaining nutrients from the dying leaves. Once the foliage turns brown and papery, trim it off a couple inches above the bulb and move the pot to your storage spot.
Amaryllis.com raises a warning that tripped me up my first year. Never store your bulb near apples, bananas, or other ripening fruit. These fruits release ethylene gas that can sterilize flower buds inside the bulb. You end up with a bulb that grows plenty of leaves next season but produces zero flowers. I keep my stored bulbs in a part of the basement with no food nearby.
Check your stored bulbs about once a month during dormancy. Look for mold or soft spots that signal rot. If you catch rot early you can cut away the bad section and dust it with cinnamon. Let it dry before putting it back in storage. Also watch for a green tip that means the bulb wants to grow. If that happens, pot it up even if the full 8-10 weeks haven't passed.
Don't water at all during the rest period. Your bulb needs dry conditions to stay dormant. Mark your calendar for the replanting date so you don't forget the bulb in storage too long. After 8-10 weeks bring it out, set it in a warm bright window, and give it a good drink of water. Most bulbs show a sprout within 1-2 weeks of coming out of storage.
That first green or red tip poking out of the bulb confirms your overwintering worked. Fresh blooms are on the way and you will have flowers in about 6-8 weeks from that point. The whole process takes minimal effort on your part and your bulb comes back stronger each year you do it.
I now overwinter six bulbs every fall and the routine takes me less than 30 minutes total to set up. I stop fertilizer in August, cut back water in September, and trim dead leaves in October. Then I move the pots to the basement. A phone reminder in December tells me to bring them back. Each year the bulbs produce more stalks and bigger flowers because they had a proper rest. Your amaryllis will reward you the same way once you get the cycle going.
Read the full article: Amaryllis Care: How to Grow and Rebloom
