Houseplant · Marantaceae

Calathea White Fusion

Goeppertia lietzei 'White Fusion'

Get the water and humidity right and this living watercolour will reward you with its brushstroked leaves.

Light

Bright indirect

Warmth

61–⁠75°F · 16–⁠24°C

Hardiness

USDA 11–⁠12

Mature size

4–⁠20 in · 10–⁠50 cm

Pet-safe
Calathea White Fusion

Overview

Calathea White Fusion is the standout of the prayer plant family, and its leaves look hand-painted, swept with marbled green and white above and a soft lilac blush beneath. The name accepted today is Goeppertia lietzei 'White Fusion', after the genus parted ways with Calathea, though most growers still greet it by the older one. It grew up on the shaded, humid floor of the Brazilian rainforest, and that gentle home quietly explains almost everything it asks of you.

There's no need to be put off by its reputation, but it is fair to know it. The white parts of each leaf carry little chlorophyll, which makes them lovely and also tender, prone to scorch in sun and to brown at the edges in hard water or dry air. Pair that with slow growth and small patience for slip-ups, and you have a plant that simply enjoys a little extra attention, which most growers can happily give.

Once you settle into its rhythm, the charm comes through clearly. The leaves fold upward at night and open again with the day, a habit known as prayer movement that gives the whole family its name. Keep the humidity high, the water clean, and the light bright but never direct, and you will be rewarded with some of the most striking foliage you can hope to grow indoors.

Care

The short version: offer bright indirect light with no direct sun, clean water rather than straight tap water, soil that stays evenly moist, and humidity above 60% held as steadily as you comfortably can.

Light

Settle it into bright indirect light and keep it clear of direct sun, which scorches the pale white tissue in no time. It will also accept partial shade or medium indirect light, though too little light leaves the new leaves small and weak with their colour drained away. An east or west window, or a couple of feet back from a bright one, lands right in its comfort zone.

Water

Keep the compost evenly moist across spring and summer, then ease back to just moist through winter. Water from below or right at the soil line and keep the leaves dry. What matters most is what you pour in: the salts, chlorine, and fluoride in tap water brown the edges, so lean on distilled water, rainwater, or tap water left to stand for 24 hours.

Soil

Pot it into a moist but well-drained mix, peaty or loam-based, with a little perlite stirred in to help it drain. A peat-free compost suits it just as well. It is forgiving about pH and takes anything from 6.0 to 8.0 in its stride.

Temperature

Give it warmth and a steady hand, somewhere between 61°F and 75°F (16°C to 24°C). Cold draughts and sudden swings unsettle it, so keep it away from doorways and chilly windowsills. Never let it dip below 16°C.

Humidity

This is the part that truly makes the difference. Aim for humidity above 60%, and higher still is even better, since dry air is what crisps the leaf edges and tempts in spider mites. A humidifier holds the most dependable level, though a pebble tray or grouping it with other plants lends a helping hand too.

Feeding

Feed it once a month through the growing season, April to September, with a balanced liquid fertiliser at the usual strength. Pause over winter while its growth quiets down. It grows slowly, so it never needs a heavy hand at feeding time.

Pruning

Pruning here is gentle, undemanding work. Snip away any dead, browned, or damaged leaves at the base, and take off leaves with widespread crispy edges or scorched white patches to keep it looking its best. That really is all it asks of you.

Repotting

Repot it every few years in spring or summer, once you notice roots circling the pot or slipping out of the drainage holes, the plant drying out sooner than it used to, or new growth coming in weak. Move it up just one pot size into fresh mix. Repotting is also the perfect moment to divide it and gain a second plant.

Size & spacing

This is a compact little thing, rising only 4 to 20 inches (10 to 50 cm) tall and spreading about the same, and it takes its time getting there over several years. That gentle size makes it a joy to tuck onto a shelf, a desk, or into a grouped display where the humidity stays comfortably high.

Troubleshooting

Nearly every hiccup with this plant shows itself on the leaves, and most lead back to water, light, or humidity. Catch the early signs and you can usually put the cause right before the trouble spreads, so there is rarely any need to worry. Match what you are seeing below to find the likely reason.

Severe

Drooping and yellowing even while the soil sits damp

When a plant flops in soggy soil, the cause is almost always root rot brought on by overwatering, and the good news is that you can often save it. The roots go brown and soft instead of firm and pale, so they can no longer take up water. Hold back the watering and let the pot drain right through, then repot into fresh, well-drained mix, snip away any rotted roots, and make sure the pot has drainage holes so it never sits wet again.

Fix:

  • Reduce watering frequency and let excess drain fully
  • Repot into fresh, well-drained mix, removing rotted roots
  • Ensure the pot has drainage holes
Setback

Pale leaf zones turning bleached or scorched in bright spots

Try not to panic if the white areas brown faster than you expect, because those pale zones hold very little chlorophyll, which means direct sun burns them long before it would mark a green leaf. The damage tends to gather on whichever leaves catch the most light, right across the lightest patches. Ease the plant away from direct rays into bright indirect light, or hang a sheer curtain to gentle a strong window, and it recovers its calm.

Fix:

  • Move out of direct sun to a bright spot with indirect light or light shade
  • Use an east/west-facing position or diffuse strong light with a sheer curtain
Setback

A silvery, stippled sheen with faint webbing beneath the leaves

If you spot delicate webbing under the leaves and a dusty, silvery speckling on top, the likely visitors are spider mites, which move in quickly when the air turns dry. You can get ahead of them: rinse the foliage and wipe the undersides clean, lift the humidity so the plant feels less welcoming, and treat with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, repeating as the label directs.

Fix:

  • Rinse foliage and wipe undersides of leaves
  • Raise humidity, as mites thrive in dry conditions
  • Treat with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, repeating per label
Cosmetic

Crispy brown edges and tips creeping in along the leaves

Take heart, because this is the complaint nearly every owner runs into, and the cause is usually nothing more sinister than tap water. The salts, chlorine, and fluoride it carries gather in the leaf and singe the margins, and dry air or uneven watering only deepens the damage. Switch to distilled water, rainwater, or tap water left to settle for a full day, hold humidity above 60%, and trim the roughest edges so the plant looks cared for again.

Fix:

  • Switch to distilled water, rainwater, or tap water left to stand 24 hours so chlorine evaporates
  • Raise humidity above 60% with a pebble tray, grouping, or humidifier
  • Keep compost evenly moist, never letting it fully dry out
  • Trim severely browned edges for appearance
Cosmetic

Fresh leaves arriving greener, smaller, and a little limp

Don't worry, this one is easy to reverse: when the newest leaves come in greener and smaller than the older ones, the plant is simply asking for more light. Too little light also leaves it thin and stretched. Shift it somewhere brighter with bright indirect light, away from the gloomy corners, and the new foliage soon returns with its proper colour.

Fix:

  • Move to a brighter spot with bright indirect light
  • Avoid deep shade or low-light corners

Toxicity

Here is some reassuring news for pet owners: this is a safe plant to share a home with. The ASPCA lists Calathea and prayer plants as non-toxic to cats and dogs, with no poisonous compounds, so a stray nibble will not harm a curious companion. The one small note is that the sap can bother sensitive skin, so a quick rinse of the hands after pruning sets everything right.

Safe for

People · Cats · Dogs · Horses · Rabbits · Livestock · Birds

Cats Safe

You can relax with a cat in the house, since the ASPCA lists this plant as non-toxic to cats and a curious nibble does no harm. A cat that munches a good deal of any houseplant might feel briefly queasy, but nothing here is poisonous.

Dogs Safe

Dogs are just as welcome near it. A pup that gnaws a leaf might drool or have a soft stool for a day, much as it would with any greenery, yet the foliage holds nothing that can hurt it.

Horses Safe

Prayer plants in this family count as non-toxic to horses, carrying no toxic principles at all. A horse would seldom cross paths with an indoor plant, and even a stray mouthful would do no damage.

Rabbits Safe

A rabbit may sample a leaf with no cause for concern. Nothing toxic lurks in the foliage, though a big helping of any new green can loosen a rabbit's tummy for a little while.

Livestock Safe

Grazing animals meet no toxic compounds in this plant. Being a tropical houseplant, it stays far from where they feed, and it would bring on no poisoning even if eaten.

Birds Safe

Pet birds have nothing to fear. The leaves carry no toxins, so a bird that lands on the plant or nibbles a leaf stays perfectly well.

People Safe

This is a fine plant to keep around little ones. The only gentle caveat is that the sap can leave a mild skin irritation on sensitive people, so give your hands a rinse after pruning.

Although classified non-toxic, NC State notes the sap may cause minor skin irritation/contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals; ingestion of any plant material can still cause mild gastrointestinal upset

How to propagate

There is just a single way to make more of this plant, and happily it doubles as a chance to freshen up a crowded pot.

DivisionModerate

Late spring, typically at repotting · Several weeks to a few months

Don't be daunted, because division is the one and only way to make more of this plant, as it simply won't take from a stem or leaf cutting. The kindest moment is late spring, usually when a repot is already on the cards. Gently ease the rhizomatous clump into sections, each one keeping its own roots and shoots, and settle them into their own pots. Offer the new divisions warmth and humidity, and they find their feet over the next few weeks to a few months.

Myths

Myth

Calatheas, including this prayer plant, are poisonous to cats and dogs.

Reality

Happily, it is the reverse. The ASPCA places both Calathea and Prayer Plant, members of the Marantaceae family, on its non-toxic list for cats and dogs alike. A pet-filled home can hold one of these with no worry at all.

Myth

The correct botanical name for this plant is Calathea lietzei.

Reality

That label has fallen behind the times. Kew's Plants of the World Online now recognises Goeppertia lietzei as the accepted name, treating Calathea lietzei as a synonym. A whole crowd of former Calatheas have since been reassigned to Goeppertia, Ctenanthe, and Stromanthe.

Myth

You can water a Calathea with ordinary tap water.

Reality

More often than not, tap water is the very thing behind those brown leaf edges. Its salts, chlorine, and fluoride gather in the tissue and burn the margins over time. Reach for distilled water or rainwater instead, or set tap water aside for 24 hours so the chlorine can drift off.

Sources