When to Harvest Garlic and How to Do It Right

Understanding when to harvest garlic distinguishes the best bulbs from the mediocre ones. I learned this the hard way when my first crop produced tiny cloves that wouldn't hold. Garlic gives us two harvests: succulent scapes early in the summer and full bulbs later. The timing of those harvests affects everything from taste to storage life.

If you harvest bulbs too early, they will remain tiny. If you wait too long, the wrappers will begin to split, and the storage potential is useless. You will learn to recognize and understand visual signs, such as the changing color of the leaves. We discuss the differences between hardneck and softneck types, as well as curing. Every garden can do this.

My neighbor taught me to monitor bulb formation weekly so I could effectively prevent disasters during harvest. We will work together on soil preparation and drying spaces. Beginners may find the process intimidating at first, but it becomes easy once they get started. The reward for waiting is beautiful garlic.

Hardneck garlic grows best in cold climate; it grows well in my Vermont garden. It has edible scapes that grow in early summer and are great for pestos! Softneck types do well in warmer areas, such as California. They do not develop scapes, but are better suited to surviving a milder winter climate than hardneck. This climate distinction identifies what should be planted.

Storage differences are significant. Softneck garlic will store twice as long as hardneck garlic. I store my garlic for 8-12 months, and hardneck garlic will last at its peak for 4-6 months. If you want garlic year-round, focus on softneck. Hardnecks give you bigger cloves.

Consider clove size and peeling ease when selecting plants. Hardneck cloves are easy to peel, but they yield fewer cloves per bulb than softneck cloves. Softnecks have many cloves, packed under tighter wrappers. I plant both types, because hardnecks are outstanding raw in salads, and softnecks have the flavor depth in cooked dishes and braid out better.

In my first year, I planted solely hardnecks. This was a bad choice, as our summers are quite hot! Now I devote about 60% of my planting to softnecks for guaranteed storage. Keep track of which varieties are successful in your microclimate. Use your cooking needs to make your final decisions.

When it comes to harvesting garlic, it's all about the leaves. For hardneck varieties, wait until 4-5 of the top leaves stay green, while the lower ones turn brown. For softnecks, wait until half of the leaves go yellow. I also use my calendar to make weekly harvest checks once the lower leaves start to fade.

Begin testing your crop about three weeks ahead of your expected harvest. Starting that time, gently lift one bulb each week to evaluate how quickly your bulbs are developing. A firm bulb with tight wrappers indicates that the bulbs are mature. Bulbs that look like onions are considered immature. And bulbs that start to crack between cloves are over-mature. This made a tremendous positive difference for my crop during some unexpected heat waves last July.

Weather changes timing. Heating above 85°F speeds up maturity and harvest 1-2 weeks early. Additionally, it is necessary to have sufficient soil moisture. Rainy periods call for a delay until the soil dries. Wet harvesting leads to rot. I keep tarps around for unforeseen storms during harvest windows.

Early harvest results in small, green bulbs. Use them right away in cooking, as they will not last well in storage. A late harvest will result in separated cloves, so turn them into oils or powders. My motto is always that it is better to harvest a little early than a little late; you can always adjust next year.

Collect necessary tools before harvesting. A spading fork won't damage bulbs when loosening the soil. Garden gloves will save your hands from soil abrasions. Ventilated harvesting trays will allow air flow during transport. I learned the hard way about bucket bruising. Don't skip the basics.

Prepare the soil 1-2 days before harvesting. If the soil is dry, lightly water it, avoiding muddy conditions. Remove mulch from plants for easy access. Insert the fork 6 inches from the stalk at a 45-degree angle. Rock the fork gently to release the soil without puncturing the bulbs themselves. Repeat this for each plant.

Grip leaf bases tightly, not the stems. Steadily pull back. If you encounter heavy resistance, loosen the soil further. Pulling quickly will break the tops of bulbs. Place undamaged bulbs in shady trays as quickly as possible. Leaving in the sun can cause scald damage in under 10 minutes. I lost half of my first crop that way.

Using your hands or a soft brush, brush off any loose soil. Do not wash the bulbs with water. Moisture attracts mold while the bulbs are curing. Be careful not to damage the roots and leaves. Damaged bulbs must be used within days. This practice maximizes the good storage potential.

Curing is what turns freshly harvested garlic into storage-ready bulbs. It concentrates those flavors and keeps mold at bay by ensuring the wrappers dry evenly. I lost my first batch of garlic to white rot before I realized that. Curing is also what develops those amazing, complex garlic notes we enjoy.

Make the curing environment ideal. With a hygrometer, maintain a 60-70°F temperature with 60% humidity. The complete darkness will help avoid greening, whereas fans will circulate the air without allowing anything to draft directly on your buds. My basement racks meet all these conditions perfectly. Do not consider your unconditioned garage or shed when temperatures fluctuate.

After 3-8 weeks of curing trim roots to ¼ inch with sharp scissors. Cut stems differently: 1-2 inches for hardnecks 6+ inches for softneck braiding. Remove only soiled outer wrappers preserving inner layers. This prepares bulbs for storage.

When storing, group bulbs by size and variety. For hardnecks, the optimal storage temperature is 60-65°F; softnecks can tolerate up to 70°F. Any damaged bulbs are taken directly to the kitchen. With proper curing, hardnecks will last 4-6 months, and softnecks will last 8-12 months.

For best results, store garlic at a temperature of 60-70°F with 60% humidity. Hardneck types should be stored on the cool side, around 60-65°F. At the same time, softnecks can tolerate up to 70°F. I use a small hygrometer to measure it. Anything above 65% humidity invites mold to grow, and we don't want that. You can use silica packets as needed.

Select breathable containers, such as mesh bags or wicker baskets. These allow moisture to escape, unlike plastic. For bulk storage, cardboard boxes stacked with newspaper work fine. I completely avoid airtight containers. They trap the gas ethylene, which, in my experience, causes sprouting prematurely.

By freezing peeled cloves submerged in olive oil in ice cube trays, you can preserve flavor for one year. Whole bulbs wrapped in foil can last up to 8 months when frozen. Also, keep in mind that thawed garlic will be softer, so use it cooked and not raw. Dehydrated garlic slices will last the longest, but don't provide the same potency.

Check for soft spots or sprouts every month. Also, rotate the order around each to allow them to get even exposure to the air. Don't refrigerate garlic, as cold temperatures can trigger sprouting in just a few weeks. Softnecks can be braided and hung up to keep perfect humidity naturally. Hardnecks do much better in a cooler, dark place, such as basement shelves.

Timing your harvest is critical for your garlic crop for a lot of reasons: bulb size, flavor intensity, and storage quality. My biggest gardening revelation came when I stopped guessing and paid closer attention to leaf signals. This is what really separates a good garlic from an amazing harvest!

Keep in mind the storage differences between hardneck and softneck garlic. Hardneck garlic requires a cool location with a temperature that varies from 4 to 6 months. Softneck garlic continues to develop tolerance when stored at warmer temperatures for about 8-12 months. I store the hardneck and softneck garlic in separate storage spaces. This avoids spoilage of flavor and development of softneck garlic before consumption.

Do not rush the curing process. If it is dried improperly, you may lose your entire crop to mold and/or sprouting. I once lost a whole harvest because I rushed the drying process. Proper curing will develop those rich flavors we love. It will also create a shield that is fundamental to its storage.

Use these tips for next season. Begin observing leaf changes early. Prep your curing area beforehand. Choose your storage containers wisely. Enjoy your patience with large, tasty bulbs all year round. Document, tweak, and improve your garlic growing every season.