How to Grow Roses from Cuttings

How to Grow Roses from Cuttings can save you a lot of money compared to purchasing established plants. You can grow many new roses for even less than the potted bush costs. You will get some free roses in the process, along with a foray into the interesting world of rose propagation!

There is great satisfaction in nurturing family traditions through the gift of roses. That heirloom variety that your grandma loved is now flourishing right alongside yours. You are preserving living history by simply propagating cuttings from the shrubs that have been in the family for generations.

You need zero professional training to succeed with rose propagation. Basic tools, such as pruners and rooting hormone, are all required. Follow straightforward techniques, and nature takes care of the rest.

Mastering rose propagation means understanding a few key steps. Select healthy stems, prepare them properly, and provide consistent care. Soon you'll enjoy new plants flourishing in your garden.

Sterilization is your first essential step. Always wash reused plastic pots and tools in hot soapy water for a minimum of 10 minutes. This kills diseases that will destroy the cuttings. I learned this the hard way after losing a batch to mold many years ago.

For the rooting hormone, please use Hormex #8 powder specifically. It is stronger than other generic rooting hormones and contains stronger auxins to promote root growth. The sticky sap from the stem will seal over the nodes, so apply it to the cut nodes immediately while they are still moist.

Pick containers such as plastic pots that have drainage holes. For most cuttings, six-inch sizes will work great. If you can't get Mason jars, cut down two-liter soda bottles to a height of six inches. They also make great humidity domes.

Before starting, gather the pruners, potting mix, and labels to ensure a smooth process. Good-quality tools can help simplify the process of cutting plants. Be sure to label each cutting with the variety and date. Tracking your progress over time will be significantly easier with the help of labeling each cutting.

The Stick-in-the-Mud method is great for beginners and gardeners. No gear needed! Push cuttings into the openings in the prepared garden soil. This works well in warmish areas that receive consistent rainfall. It needs nothing other than healthy stems and basic tools.

Success rates between methods vary significantly. Mason Jar propagation struggles with rates of under 30% due to a lack of air. In comparison, the use of professional Misting Systems can achieve over 80% success rates. Humidity controls facilitate this difference, but they come at a cost.

The Baggie Method uses clear plastic bags as humidity domes. Place small pots in gallon zip bags held open with sticks. It provides moisture yet prevents fungal issues. I've found this perfect for small-scale home propagation.

All methods have important temperature limits. Do not let cuttings get colder than freezing (32°F) or hotter than 100°F. Prolonged exposure to severe cold will kill the forming roots; prolonged exposure to heat will cook the cutting's stem. Use a simple thermometer to monitor the cuttings properly.

Pick cuttings at dawn when stems have the highest moisture content. Choose pencil-size stems that are 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) long. Select sections that have four visible nodes below faded flowers. This will ensure the cuttings start with the best hydration possible for rooting to succeed.

Prepare your cuttings by removing all leaves below the angle cut. Make angled cuts above the top node and below the bottom node. As soon as you make the cuts, apply rooting hormone such as Hormex #8, to the hydrated stem base. This traps important growth hormones before the sap dries up.

Take cuttings that are 3-4 inches (8-10 cm) long and plant them in a soil-perlite mix. Keep two nodes buried underground for future roots to grow from. Place the cuttings 6 inches apart from one another. Water the cuttings thoroughly, but ensure that the hormone coating is not washed away.

To ensure your cuttings have proper moisture, place a jar or bottle on top of them as a cover. Open the cover for a minute or so each day. You will want to check the surface soil for moisture every few days, or every day if possible, up to a one-inch depth. After two weeks of rooting, you can transition your cuttings to full sun.

Each day, check soil moisture using the finger test. Push your finger one inch deep (2.5 cm) into the soil close to the base of the cutting. Water only if the soil feels dry at this depth. Too much moisture will drown the roots, and too little humidity will negatively affect the developing plants. Maintaining a consistent moisture level in the soil will minimize both issues.

Adjust methods of controlling humidity for cuttings under a jar and cuttings without a jar. Cuttings under a jar should be vented daily by lifting the lids for five minutes. Wipe condensation from the glass lid for clarity. Cuttings without a jar would require a light misting of leaves at dawn during arid conditions, preventing dehydration but not contributing to the development of pathogen molds.

Controlling the temperature is essential for success. Keep it between 65-85°F (18-29°C) with a basic thermometer. Temperatures below 65°F slow root development, whereas temperatures above 85°F cause the soft, tender stems and leaves to cook. During heatwaves, I put the pots in the shade, especially after losing cuttings one July.

Rotate containers weekly to ensure all sides receive equal sun exposure. Look for signs of healthy growth, like red stems, and signs of vigorous growth, like green leaves. Immediately investigate issues like yellow leaves by changing your watering or airflow. Your foresight will ensure robust roses down the line.

Sterilization is non-negotiable before using, clean tools and pots with hot, soapy water. Otherwise, diseases may result in ruined cuttings. Sadly, I learned this lesson when I lost an entire batch of cuttings to fungus once. Start the right way → finish the right way.

Always use Hormex #8 rooting hormone for the best results every time! The exclusive Hormex formula far exceeds any generic brand. Application to the moist base of the stems, ideally right after cutting, ensures that all growth boosters are sealed in before any sap dries. Your cuttings will appreciate the strong roots!

Place each cutting inches deep to allow for root development. Each cut should be at a depth of 3-4 inches (8-10 cm) every time. This keeps two nodes contained underground, where roots propagate. Having a ruler will help with the proper depth. Most failures happen when growing phases start inconsistently.

To encourage the roots to grow consistently, the temperatures need to be held constant, if possible, in the 65-85°F (18-29°C) range. Being less than 65°F will slow root development, and damage occurs above 85°F. Check the temperature every day with a thermometer. For cuttings to survive, they need to be protected from extremes.

If you're planning to grow roses from cuttings, you will save a ton of money over buying plants. You can fill your garden with lovely blooms for just pennies per plant. 😉 Propagating roses in your home garden is inexpensive for all! Get started propagating now and reap the benefits of these savings.

The meaning of preserving heirloom varieties through propagation is profound. That special rose bush your grandmother grew will flourish in your own garden. You are maintaining living ties to family history with each cutting. The reward is worth the effort and carries generational significance.

You don't need any skills to be successful with rose propagation. Just some basic tools and simple techniques are all that's required. Just follow simple steps, and nature takes care of the rest! With a little time, you'll be successful in very little time - anyone can do it, with some diligence and care.

Take that first step today. Choose one healthy stem of your favorite rose plant, follow the process discussed, plant it confidently, and watch as this new rose begins its journey! Consider that the beginning of your garden is a single cutting!