How to Grow Asparagus from Crowns Successfully

Published: September 14, 2025
Updated: September 14, 2025
Key Takeaways

Discover the successful process of growing asparagus from crowns in beds of deep, well-drained soil.

Set crowns 6-12 inches deep depending on soil type for best root development.

Water as needed to maintain 1-2 inches a week while making sure crowns are not waterlogged.

Be sure to use balanced fertilizer three times a year, timed to three major growth stages.

For the first year, do not harvest any spears, as it is much more beneficial to develop the crowns for future production.

By using proper mulching and seasonal weed control, you can increase the potential for more than 20 years of production.

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Knowing how to grow asparagus from crowns provides a harvest that can last up to twenty years with one planting. Crowns will allow you to enjoy a harvest in two years, whereas seeds can take three or four years to mature and produce a harvest. This is efficient in terms of time and labor. You will be able to enjoy delicious spears much sooner by using crowns.

When it comes to asparagus, it all begins with choosing the right location. Select a spot with full sun and well-drained soil. Avoid low-lying areas that may have accumulated water. Before planting, check the soil's pH level. Asparagus prefers a slightly alkaline environment. Decisions here affect not just next year's harvest, but potentially decades of harvests to come.

Once established, asparagus is extremely low-maintenance. In the first couple of years, it will require some attention. After that, your bed will produce with very little work on your end. We're going to cover planting care and the high points of harvesting. Take care of this business, and you can enjoy fresh asparagus for a lifetime.

Soil Preparation and Site Selection

Proper soil preparation will significantly impact your long-term success with asparagus planting. A simple pH testing kit can be purchased at any garden store. Asparagus prefers a pH between 6.5-7.0 for optimal growth, so if your soil is somewhat acidic, you will need to supplement it with lime. Soil that is too alkaline needs sulfur. This helps the crowns take up nutrients effectively.

Clay and sandy soils require differing preparation. Heavy clay will require the addition of compost to improve drainage. Sandy soil needs organic matter to hold moisture. Incorporate these amendments deeply into the bed. Asparagus roots will grow down several feet with time.

Select the sunniest area in your garden. Asparagus requires six to eight hours of sunlight each day. More shade will produce fewer spears. Stay clear of trees or buildings providing shade. Morning sun dries dew fast, helping to avoid fungal diseases.

Adequate spacing allows each crown to expand and move freely. Space crowns 12-18 inches apart within rows. Keep rows 4-5 feet apart. This ensures air circulation and makes harvesting easier. Crowded plants compete for nutrients and have thin spears.

Sunlight Requirements

  • Asparagus needs 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily for optimal spear production
  • Southern exposure sites warm faster in spring for earlier harvests
  • Partial shade locations reduce yields by up to 30% according to studies
  • Avoid planting near tall structures or trees casting afternoon shadows

Soil Composition

  • Loamy soils with good drainage provide ideal growing conditions
  • Clay soils require amendment with coarse sand and organic matter
  • Sandy soils benefit from compost to improve water retention
  • Test soil texture using jar method before planting crowns

Drainage Solutions

  • Raised beds recommended where water pools for over 12 hours
  • Incorporate perlite at 25% volume for heavy clay improvement
  • Create gentle slope (2-3% grade) to facilitate runoff
  • Avoid low-lying frost pockets that damage emerging spears

pH Adjustment

  • Target range 6.5-7.0 for optimal nutrient availability
  • Apply agricultural lime at 5 pounds per 100 square feet for acidic soils
  • Retest soil 4-6 weeks after amendment application
  • Wood ash provides potassium while raising pH gradually

Nutrient Management

  • Conduct soil test to determine phosphorus and potassium needs
  • Incorporate rock phosphate for long-term phosphorus availability
  • Balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer supports initial crown establishment
  • Compost provides slow-release nutrients without burning roots

Step-by-Step Planting Guide

Excavate your trench according to your soil type for optimal results. For sandy soil, you want to dig deeper twelve-inch trenches to retain moisture. For clay soil, dig six-inch trenches to a shallower depth, ensuring the soil does not become waterlogged. It's important to take your time on measuring the depth before planting. The varying depth is crucial in protecting the crowns from rotting.

Outline the bottom of each trench with fertilizer before placing crowns. Use one cup of 10-10-10 fertilizer per crown and distribute it evenly on the bottom of the crown. This immediately nourishes roots. Keep crowns from erupting fertilizer to avoid burning.

Arrange crowns from the head to toe in the trench with the buds facing upward. Place the buds around twelve inches apart. Allow the roots to fan out naturally. Ensure the buds are placed two inches below the final soil level for optimal growing space.

Continue to backfill soil as spears get taller. Initially, cover off crowns with two inches of soil. Once your spears reach six inches high, add one to two inches more soil. Continue that process every seven to ten days. Fill the trencher to the desired level when finished.

Trench Preparation

  • Dig trenches 6-12 inches deep depending on soil type
  • Clay soils require shallower 6-inch trenches to prevent waterlogging
  • Sandy soils need deeper 12-inch trenches for moisture retention
  • Line trench base with 1 cup 10-10-10 fertilizer per crown

Crown Positioning

  • Place crowns 'head-to-toe' with buds facing upward
  • Space buds 12 inches apart along trench length
  • Fan roots outward without forcing unnatural spreading
  • Ensure buds sit 2 inches below final soil level

Initial Backfilling

  • Cover crowns with 2-3 inches of amended soil
  • Water thoroughly to settle soil around roots
  • Label rows with variety names and planting date
  • Apply light straw mulch to retain moisture

Progressive Soil Addition

  • Add soil when spears reach 6 inches in height
  • Incorporate 1-2 inches of soil every 7-10 days
  • Complete backfilling within 4-6 weeks of planting
  • Final soil level should match surrounding garden bed

Post-Planting Care

  • Water immediately after each soil addition
  • Install temporary shade cloth in hot climates
  • Monitor for pest damage on emerging spears
  • Avoid foot traffic near newly planted crowns

Watering and Fertilizing Essentials

Watering asparagus varies depending on the type of soil and climate. Sandy soils require watering every three to four days as they dry out quickly. Clay soil holds moisture, so water weekly. Hot regions require more frequent watering than cooler ones do.

Select fertilizer types according to growth phases. Use a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer when planting and in early spring. Switch to high-phosphorus formulas during root development. Use compost tea every month in the summer for fern growth. Avoid options high in nitrogen during harvest time.

Keep an eye out for indicators of excess water and nutrient issues. Yellow ferns are a sign that there may be excess moisture in the soil or a nitrogen deficiency. Thin spears are likely indicative that phosphorus may be deficient. Brown tips would indicate salt build-up due to over-fertilizing. Wilting means that immediate watering is required.

Change care with the season. Watering can be increased in summer heat and reduced in fall as the plant goes dormant. Apply the final fertilizer in early September. Suspend fertilization in the winter months. Begin light feeding when spears re-emerge in spring.

Watering Frequency

  • Asparagus requires consistent moisture, especially during spear development and fern growth
  • Provide 1-2 inches of water weekly through rainfall or irrigation
  • Sandy soils need watering every 3-4 days due to faster drainage
  • Clay soils retain moisture longer and typically require weekly watering

Irrigation Methods

  • Drip irrigation delivers water directly to roots while conserving resources
  • Soaker hoses provide even moisture distribution along planting rows
  • Avoid overhead sprinklers which can promote fungal diseases on foliage
  • Morning watering reduces evaporation loss compared to midday application

Seasonal Watering Adjustments

  • Increase watering during hot summer months when evaporation rates peak
  • Reduce irrigation in fall as plants prepare for dormancy
  • Winter watering unnecessary except in extremely dry climates without snow cover
  • Resume regular watering when spears emerge in early spring

Fertilizer Selection

  • Balanced 10-10-10 NPK fertilizer provides equal nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium
  • Organic options include compost tea, fish emulsion, or well-rotted manure
  • Use high-phosphorus fertilizers for root development in new plantings
  • Avoid high-nitrogen formulas that promote foliage over spear production

Application Timing

  • Apply first fertilizer in early spring before spears emerge
  • Second application after harvest completion supports fern growth
  • Third feeding in early fall strengthens roots before winter
  • Never fertilize during harvest season to avoid altering spear flavor

Mulching and Weed Management

Select mulch types that suit your garden. Straw mulch insulates crowns and drains well. Shredded leaves will not only suppress weeds, but as they break down, they will also provide nutrients to the soil. Wood chips will last longer but require additional nitrogen. Compost mulch suppresses weeds while delivering nutrients to plants.

Proper application of mulch helps protect plants. Add two to four inches in early spring when the soil warms. Maintain three inches from the crown to deter rot. Replace annually when materials break down. Remove for a short time in spring to warm soil.

Carefully consider weed management methods. Hand pull when the soil is moist. Shallow hoeing will remove weed tops and avoid damaging roots. Consider using chemical-free methods such as corn gluten meal or flame weeding. Please do not use herbicides near edible spears.

Seasonally adjust mulch to ensure optimal function. Place NEW mulch down after the June harvest. Create six inches of winter mulch for crown protection. In the spring, remove winter cover slowly as temperatures increase. Maintain summer mulch to reduce compaction and weed growth throughout the summer.

Mulch Material Selection

  • Straw provides excellent insulation while allowing water penetration
  • Shredded leaves decompose quickly, adding organic matter to soil
  • Wood chips offer long-lasting coverage but may temporarily reduce nitrogen
  • Compost mulch feeds plants while suppressing weed germination

Mulch Application Guidelines

  • Apply 2-4 inch layer around plants after soil warms in spring
  • Maintain 3-inch clearance around crowns to prevent rot
  • Replenish mulch annually as materials decompose naturally
  • Remove mulch temporarily in early spring to warm soil faster

Manual Weed Removal

  • Hand-pull weeds weekly when soil is moist for easier removal
  • Use hoe carefully within top 1 inch of soil to avoid root damage
  • Target perennial weeds like quackgrass at first appearance
  • Dispose of weeds with seeds away from garden area

Chemical-Free Weed Prevention

  • Landscape fabric blocks weeds while allowing water penetration
  • Corn gluten meal applied in spring prevents weed seed germination
  • Flame weeding effectively kills young weeds before spears emerge
  • Boiling water spot-treats weeds in pathways without chemicals

Seasonal Maintenance

  • Refresh mulch layer after final harvest in late June
  • Increase mulch depth to 6 inches for winter crown protection
  • Remove winter mulch gradually as soil warms in spring
  • Monitor for weeds during fern growth phase in summer

First-Year Care and Harvesting

Try to avoid harvesting spears in your first year, even though it is tough. Let all spears grow into full fern foliage. This begins to build up energy reserves in the crown. Cutting spears at this time will permanently weaken the plants. It may be challenging to be patient, but you will be rewarded with decades of harvests to come.

Provide consistent care to promote fern development. Water weekly unless naturally occurring rain produces approximately one to two inches. Stake tall ferns if they are planted in windy areas. Inspect foliage regularly for the possibility of asparagus beetles. If you see asparagus beetles or pests, use neem oil immediately.

Prepare plants for the winter as the climate dictates. Areas with snow require straw mulch over the crowns of the plants after the first frost. Regions that do not receive snow will use a lighter mulch to help prevent the crowns from rotting. Cut back the dead ferns to one inch above the soil.

Be cautious when transitioning into harvesting in year two. Remove winter mulch gradually in the spring. Harvest only spears thicker than a pencil and keep the harvest to a maximum of two weeks. Starting to harvest gradually is more comfortable for the developing crowns.

Spring Establishment (Months 1-3)

  • Water crowns immediately after planting with 1 inch of water
  • Monitor spear emergence, typically within 2-3 weeks of planting
  • Allow all spears to develop into fern-like foliage without harvesting
  • Apply balanced fertilizer 4 weeks after planting to support growth

Summer Fern Development (Months 4-6)

  • Maintain consistent soil moisture with 1-2 inches of water weekly
  • Stake tall ferns in windy areas to prevent breakage
  • Hand-remove weeds weekly without disturbing shallow roots
  • Apply neem oil if asparagus beetles are spotted on foliage

Fall Preparation (Months 7-9)

  • Reduce watering as plants prepare for dormancy
  • Apply final fertilizer application in early September
  • Leave healthy ferns intact to photosynthesize until frost
  • Remove only yellowed or diseased foliage from plants

Winter Protection (Months 10-12)

  • Cut back dead ferns to 1 inch above soil after first frost
  • Apply 4-6 inch layer of straw mulch over crowns
  • In snowy regions, allow snow accumulation for insulation
  • In mild climates, use lighter mulch to prevent crown rot

Year Two Transition

  • Remove winter mulch gradually as soil warms in spring
  • Begin light harvesting when spears reach 6-8 inches tall
  • Harvest only for 2 weeks maximum during second year
  • Select spears thicker than pencil width for best quality

5 Common Myths

Myth

To achieve proper growth of asparagus crowns, it is important to properly plant them in trenches to exactly 18 inches depth.

Reality

@Actual trench depth will differ depending on soil type more than being associated with a definite measurement. For sandy soils, a trench depth of 10-12 inches is beneficial to prevent moisture evaporating away from the roots. Heavy clay soils benefit from shallower trench depths of 6 inches as they can cause pooling. If you plant your crowns at a respectable depth based on your soil type, then the plants will achieve a healthy root system with less risk of being waterlogged or dried out.

Myth

You should harvest asparagus spears right away during the first growing season after planting crowns.

Reality

It is important to "not harvest" in the first year to develop strong crowns, because cutting spears before their time will draw on energy reserves that are critical for establishing roots. If you let all the spears grow into full ferns during year one, the plant will provide photosynthesis that will produce carbohydrate stores for future years of production. It pays to be patient, as developing stronger plants will mean more years of harvest- even into decades- after the first year of growth. The second year will mean harvests after previous effort as a result of the carbohydrates built up the previous year.

Myth

Asparagus plants require daily watering to prevent the soil from drying out completely.

Reality

Consistent but moderate watering proves more effective than daily saturation, as asparagus roots need oxygen circulation between watering sessions. Provide 1-2 inches of water weekly through deep irrigation that moistens the entire root zone, adjusting frequency based on soil type and weather conditions. Overwatering causes crown rot and fungal diseases, while proper moisture management encourages deep root growth that accesses subsurface water reserves.

Myth

Female asparagus plants yield more than male plants because they produce berries.

Reality

However, male-dominant types typically outperform female plants; the difference is that male plants direct all of their energy towards spear formation, instead of developing seeds. Male plants can produce an average of about 30% more edible spears over the life of the plant because they do not devote energy to generating berries. Selecting hybrid male types, such as Jersey Giant, will generate the maximum yield potential while avoiding the removal of volunteer seedlings from dropped berries.

Myth

Asparagus will fail to grow successfully unless it is planted in a location where the sun shines on it for the entire day.

Reality

Asparagus can thrive in conditions where it receives 6-8 hours of full sun, but it tolerates partial shade better than we give it credit for. While full sun will produce maximum yields, morning sun and afternoon shade will still produce satisfactory yields in some warmer climates, as much as 20-30% lower yields than full sun plantings, but satisfactory for some. Planting asparagus near a deciduous tree is ideal, and while it may receive some shade during the peak summer growing season, it almost always gets adequate sun in the spring when asparagus is harvested.

Conclusion

Once firmly established, asparagus beds & crowns will provide you with twenty-plus years of production. In any event, the long-established nature of these crops makes this effort worthwhile. If you've planted the crowns, patience is truly a virtue, as the years of fresh spears and spears from your own bed will pay off. Your care today makes tomorrow's yield possible. Very few garden vegetables can match this long-term supply.

Keep in mind, never have first-year spears, regardless of how great they look. This sacrificial step builds crown strength. Crown strength leads to​ a lifetime of crown weakness or crown strength. Your discipline now will ensure future years of healthy harvests. This one rule will determine your long-term success.

Three basic aspects support success with asparagus: preparation of the soil, care throughout the seasons, and patience. If you get those right from the start, your mature beds will be exceptionally low maintenance. Mature, established plants require only the most basic maintenance. The efficiencies of the mature plant reward your initial investment of time and effort.

Use the following methods for self-sustaining asparagus beds. The amount of work required is reduced as the plants mature. Established, mature crowns can better resist pests and diseases. They may thrive with virtually no care at all. For decades, you can harvest with little to no effort or care.

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Frequently Asked Questions

How long does asparagus take to grow from crowns to harvest?

Proper timeline expectations are crucial for success with asparagus crowns:

  • First year: No harvest allowed - focus entirely on plant establishment
  • Second year: Limited 2-3 week harvest period only
  • Third year: Full 6-8 week harvest season begins
  • Mature plants: Produce reliably for 20+ years with proper care

Can I grow asparagus from store-bought asparagus spears?

While theoretically possible, growing from store-bought spears is highly impractical compared to using crowns:

  • Crowns establish faster with developed root systems
  • Spear propagation has extremely low success rates
  • Crowns guarantee varietal consistency and disease resistance
  • Professional crowns yield harvests years sooner than spear attempts

What happens if you harvest asparagus too early?

Premature harvesting severely compromises long-term productivity by:

  • Depleting energy reserves needed for root development
  • Weakening crowns before they establish robust root systems
  • Reducing future spear production by up to half
  • Potentially killing young plants unable to recover energy

How often should asparagus be watered?

Optimal watering practices vary by growth stage and soil type:

  • New plantings: Water immediately after planting and maintain consistent moisture
  • Established beds: Provide 1-2 inches weekly during growing season
  • Sandy soils: Require more frequent watering sessions
  • Dormant periods: Reduce watering significantly except in drought conditions

Why is proper soil preparation critical for asparagus?

Asparagus demands specific soil conditions because:

  • Deep root systems require loose, well-drained soil
  • pH balance directly affects nutrient availability
  • Poor drainage causes fatal crown rot diseases
  • Proper initial preparation reduces maintenance for decades

What companion plants benefit asparagus growth?

Strategic companion planting enhances asparagus health through:

  • Tomatoes repelling asparagus beetles with solanine
  • Parsley attracting beneficial predatory insects
  • Basil masking scent from pest insects
  • Avoiding all alliums which compete aggressively

When should asparagus ferns be cut back?

Proper fern management follows this seasonal schedule:

  • Spring: Allow all spears to develop into ferns
  • Summer: Maintain healthy ferns for photosynthesis
  • Fall: Remove only yellowed/diseased foliage
  • Winter: Cut back completely after first hard frost

How does asparagus survive winter conditions?

Asparagus withstands freezing temperatures through:

  • Natural dormancy triggered by shorter days
  • Energy storage in well-established crowns
  • Protective mulch layer insulation
  • Root systems buried below frost line

Can asparagus grow in partial shade?

While preferring full sun, asparagus tolerates some shade with considerations:

  • Minimum 6 hours direct sunlight required
  • Morning sun with afternoon shade acceptable
  • Expect 20-30% reduced yields in shade
  • Avoid deep shade which prevents spear development

What indicates asparagus is ready to harvest?

Harvest readiness shows through these clear signs:

  • Spears reaching 6-8 inches in height
  • Diameter exceeding pencil thickness
  • Tight, compact spear tips
  • Easily snaps when bent near base
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