How to Fertilize Orchids: Ultimate Guide

Written by
Kiana Okafor
Reviewed by
Prof. Samuel Fitzgerald, Ph.D.Understand how to fertilize orchids correctly for vibrant blooms and healthy growth.
Test the quality of the water because pH and TDS have a direct impact on the ability to absorb nutrients.
Apply diluted fertilizer weekly and using the weakly method dilutes the nutrients and prevents salt in the potting media from building up.
Change the strength of the fertilizer and the frequency of application based on the phases of growth according to the seasons.
Natural options like eggshells could be helpful, or banana peels for organic nutrition.
Flush potting media with pure water once a month to remove salts.
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Learning how to fertilize orchids changed everything for my collection. I began with sparse plants that rarely produced flowers. I figured out their feeding requirements, and they changed into vibrant, show-stopping plants. You unlock their true potential with the proper feeding. Orchids can reach their full potential with a good routine of care.
This feeding guide will make the process easier for every grower. If you are starting, you can expect clear and actionable steps. If you are more experienced, you will find additional advanced methods. This guide covers rejuvenation-incorporating schedules, nutrient acquisition for the correct nursery and growing process, and water quality. Again, you can expect your plants (orchids) to reward you! Healthy plants give you an incredible show each year when you feed them correctly!
Water Quality Essentials
The capacity of your orchids to absorb nutrients totally depends on the quality of the water. In fact, if the water is poor, you will eventually encounter a salt buildup that will block the roots. I learned this the hard way a few years ago when my cattleyas developed white crusts on the surface of their pots. More importantly, test every water source to ensure it won't damage your plants before using it for fertilization.
Start by using pH testing devices, such as strips or digital meters. Orchids prefer a slightly acidic water pH, ranging from 5.5 to 6.3. If the pH falls outside this range, nutrients will become locked up in the water. I keep a meter by my watering can. I check the pH every month and find similar results.
Use a TDS meter to check Total Dissolved Solids below 100 ppm. High amounts of dissolved minerals block your orchids from taking up nutrients. You'll see a noticeable improvement after switching to cleaner water, as indicated by readings of 300 ppm.
Be mindful of the water sources you choose. Gather rainwater first. Use reverse osmosis systems as necessary (it requires some capital investment). Tap water is only suitable if filtered. I use rainwater that I have collected for my prize Phalaenopsis. I can see strong, healthy roots in weeks.
pH Level Importance
- Orchid roots absorb nutrients optimally in slightly acidic conditions between 5.5 and 6.3 pH
- Use pH testing strips monthly to monitor levels before fertilizing your plants
- Adjust high pH with elemental sulfur and low pH with dolomite limestone applications
TDS Management
- Total Dissolved Solids measure mineral content; keep below 100 ppm for healthy roots
- High TDS causes salt buildup that blocks nutrient absorption in orchid roots
- Test monthly with digital meters and flush pots when levels exceed 150 ppm
Water Temperature Impact
- Cold water below 50°F (10°C) shocks roots and slows nutrient absorption
- Ideal water temperature ranges between 65-75°F (18-24°C) for optimal uptake
- Always test temperature with a thermometer before watering your orchids
Chlorine and Chemical Risks
- Tap water chlorine damages beneficial microbes in orchid potting media
- Let water sit 24 hours before use to allow chlorine evaporation naturally
- Chemical contaminants like fluoride cause leaf tip burn in sensitive orchids
Mineral Balance
- Calcium and magnesium ratios should maintain 3:1 balance for healthy growth
- Test water hardness annually using aquarium test kits available at pet stores
- Supplement soft water with CalMag additives during active growth phases
Natural Fertilizer Options
Natural fertilizers are cost-effective solutions to provide nutrition to your orchids and lower exposure to synthetic fertilizers containing harsh chemicals. I switched to using natural products years ago after observing leaf burn on my orchids due to artificial fertilizers. Eggshells, banana peels, and used coffee grounds are excellent sources of nutrients. These sources release nutrients slowly, limiting root damage and providing nutrients at almost zero cost.
To prepare crushed eggshells, it is important to rinse, dry, and grind them into a powder. When ready, soak them in a cup of water for about two days. This will result in a calcium-rich fertilizer (for very high nitrogen fertilizer use to reduce the nitrogen ratio). Calcium strengthens cell walls and prevents blossom end rot. Fertilize your plants once a month throughout the growth seasons.
Banana peels can be utilized to encourage high potassium levels, which are responsible for boosting flower production. Simply dry three banana peels using sunlight, chop them up finely, and let them steep in one quart of water (at room temperature) for three days. Potassium plays a crucial role in enhancing disease resistance in plants. When ready to use the "banana tea," dilute it with four parts water, and use it monthly as an application.
You can use other organic options such as coffee grounds and fish emulsion. You can rinse one tablespoon of used coffee grounds and spread them out to dry. We recommend using them once a month. Fish emulsion can be used diluted 1:4 (1 part fish emulsion and 4 parts water) to provide balanced nutrition for the plant. Natural fertilizers should always be applied during the plant's active growing phases for the most effective absorption by the plant.

Crushed Eggshells
- Eggshells provide essential calcium carbonate that strengthens orchid cell walls while preventing common issues like blossom end rot and yellowing leaves
- To prepare, thoroughly rinse eggshells to remove residue, then blend into fine powder using a food processor or mortar and pestle
- After blending, soak the powdered shells in room temperature water for exactly forty-eight hours to create a calcium-rich fertilizer solution
- Apply monthly during active growth phases by mixing one cup of the solution per gallon of water for optimal root absorption
- Benefits include slow-release calcium delivery that prevents tip burn and promotes stronger root systems without chemical additives
- Always store unused powder in airtight containers away from moisture to maintain effectiveness for up to six months

Banana Peel Tea
- Banana peels deliver vital potassium that enhances flower production and improves disease resistance in orchids throughout blooming seasons
- Preparation involves drying banana peels under sunlight for two full days until brittle, then chopping them finely before steeping in water
- Steep the chopped peels in room temperature water for seventy-two hours to extract potassium and other beneficial minerals effectively
- Dilute the resulting tea with four parts water before applying every three weeks during peak flowering periods
- This natural solution boosts phosphorus absorption leading to more vibrant blooms and substantially stronger root development
- Refrigerate unused portions in sealed glass containers for maximum two weeks to prevent fermentation and odor development

Coffee Grounds
- Used coffee grounds offer nitrogen-rich organic matter that promotes lush foliage growth and improves potting media structure
- Always rinse grounds thoroughly under running water to remove residual acidity before spreading them in a thin layer to dry completely
- Apply one tablespoon of dried grounds directly onto the potting media surface monthly then water deeply to initiate nutrient release
- Benefits include attracting beneficial earthworms and microorganisms while gradually releasing nitrogen over several weeks
- Regularly test pH levels since excessive application may increase soil acidity beyond optimal ranges for certain orchid varieties
- Store dried grounds in breathable fabric bags rather than plastic to prevent mold formation and maintain freshness

Fish Emulsion
- Fish emulsion provides balanced NPK nutrients plus essential trace elements like zinc and iron for comprehensive orchid health
- Dilute commercial emulsion at a precise 1:4 ratio with water or use aquarium water directly from fish tanks as alternative
- Apply the diluted solution biweekly at quarter strength during spring and summer when orchids show active growth signs
- Noticeable greening of leaves typically occurs within three to five days after application due to rapid nitrogen uptake
- Always apply outdoors because of the strong odor and avoid contact with delicate flowers to prevent potential damage
- Store original bottles in cool dark locations away from direct sunlight to preserve potency for approximately six months

Bone Meal Fertilizer
- Bone meal delivers phosphorus and calcium that stimulate robust root development and significantly enhance flowering potential
- Preparation requires baking cleaned chicken bones at 300°F (150°C) for two hours until brittle then grinding into powder
- Mix one teaspoon into fresh potting media during biannual repotting sessions for slow-release nutrient delivery
- Benefits include continuous nutrient release lasting six to eight months without requiring frequent reapplication
- When grinding bones, always wear protective masks to prevent inhalation of fine particles that could irritate lungs
- Store bone meal powder in airtight containers placed in pantry areas where it remains effective for three years
Fertilizing Tools & Techniques
Precision tools ensure that orchid fertilizing is quick and easy. I use graduated cylinders for precise dilutions and a TDS meter to monitor the purity of my water. The long spout of traditional watering cans allows me to direct the water to the roots without getting the leaves wet. In contrast, pressure sprayers can provide a deeper foliar feed with fine spray coverage. These basic materials are a must for any grower to achieve consistency.
It is imperative to master the following three techniques. Soaking allows pots to soak in the water for deep root saturation, and is well-suited for established orchids. Drenching is pouring the solution over the bark media onto mounted orchids. Flushing allows the salts to be removed at least monthly with three times the pot's volume of water. Select the technique that is most appropriate for your particular orchid.
Fertilization should be applied early in the morning before the sun is strong. Orchids absorb nutrients best when temperatures are low, but I do not fertilize above 85°F to avoid burning the leaves. I either dilute fertilizers in the summer or increase dilution in the spring. When using chemical fertilizers, you should always wear gloves and goggles. Safety is always worth protecting your skin and eyes.
Precision Measuring Devices
- Digital pH meters ensure optimal acidity levels between 5.5-6.3 before mixing fertilizers
- TDS testers monitor dissolved solids below 100 ppm to prevent root damage from mineral buildup
- Graduated cylinders provide exact measurements for consistent dilution ratios every application
- Calibrate meters monthly using standard buffer solutions for reliable readings year-round
Mixing Equipment
- Plastic mixing buckets with gallon/liter markings simplify large-batch fertilizer preparation
- Stainless steel whisks prevent chemical reactions when blending concentrated fertilizer solutions
- Funnel sets with fine mesh screens filter undissolved solids from homemade nutrient mixtures
- Designate separate containers for organic and synthetic fertilizers to avoid cross-contamination
Application Tools
- Long-spout watering cans ensure precise root-zone targeting without wetting sensitive leaves
- Pressure sprayers enable foliar feeding for rapid nutrient absorption through orchid foliage
- Drip irrigation systems automate consistent delivery for large collections during vacations
- Always clean tools immediately after use with vinegar solution to prevent salt crystallization
Protective Gear
- Chemical-resistant gloves shield skin from fertilizer concentrates during mixing procedures
- Safety goggles prevent accidental splashes of alkaline solutions near sensitive eyes
- N95 masks filter airborne particles when handling powdered fertilizers like bone meal
- Aprons protect clothing from permanent stains caused by iron-rich liquid supplements
Monitoring Accessories
- Root inspection cameras assess fertilizer impact without disturbing potting media
- Moisture meters prevent overwatering by indicating optimal hydration before fertilizing
- Light meters ensure sufficient photosynthesis capacity for nutrient processing
- Maintain tool calibration records to track measurement accuracy across seasons
Root Zone Soaking
- Submerge pot bases for 10 minutes ensuring complete root saturation with nutrient solution
- Best for established orchids needing deep nutrient penetration to lower root zones
- Use room-temperature water between 65-75 °F (18-24 °C) to prevent root shock
- Drain thoroughly afterward to avoid anaerobic conditions in potting medium
Top-Drench Method
- Slowly pour fertilizer solution across entire media surface until drainage begins
- Ideal for mounted orchids or plants in loose bark where even distribution is critical
- Rotate pots during application to ensure all roots receive equal nutrient access
- Repeat after 5 minutes if medium appears dry for complete penetration
Foliar Feeding
- Mist diluted fertilizer (1/8 strength) directly onto leaf undersides early morning
- Delivers micronutrients rapidly but avoid blooms to prevent petal discoloration
- Use fine-mist sprayers producing droplets under 50 μm (micrometers) for optimal absorption
- Apply only when temperatures are below 80 °F (27 °C) to prevent leaf burn
Flushing Protocol
- Run 3x pot volume of pure water through medium monthly to remove salt accumulations
- Essential after synthetic fertilizer use to prevent crystalline buildup on roots
- Test runoff TDS monthly - flush when measurements exceed 300 ppm concentration
- Time flushes before scheduled fertilizing for maximum nutrient absorption
Seasonal Timing
- Morning applications allow maximum daytime absorption during photosynthetic periods
- Suspend fertilizing during winter dormancy except for tropical varieties showing growth
- Increase frequency to biweekly during spring growth spurts with 1/2 strength solutions
- Avoid midday applications in summer when temperatures exceed 85 °F (29 °C)
Core Weekly Weakly Method
The weekly weakly approach emulates how orchids are nourished in the rainforest environment. Envision light rain every day, gently bathing the canopy and washing nutrients down the tree's trunk. This gentle, diluted, weekly feed is very similar to the natural cadence of this type of capability. This method helps your orchid maintain a steady source of nutrition year-round, preventing excessive salt accumulation. I have personally witnessed changes in the health of my roots in three months with this technique.
For most orchids, dilute fertilizers to one-quarter strength. For a balanced formula, instead of two half-teaspoons per gallon, use one half-teaspoon. MSU formulas have a one-teaspoon ratio in active growth. Be precise in measuring the ratio. My Phalaenopsis works well at this ratio, and my Cattleyas require a lower nitrogen ratio during budding.
Fertilizer application preferably happens in the morning and early afternoon when the stomata are opening. Water the roots first using pure water, and avoid watering when the temperature exceeds 85°F. In the winter months, cut the feeding back, except for the tropical varieties. Make seasonal adjustments to prevent the plant from experiencing stress. Your orchids will show their appreciation with explosive growth!
Once a month, flush your pots with pure water. Apply three times the volume of your pot to remove salts. Test the runoff TDS until it is below 100 ppm, and refrain from fertilizing during a flush week. This modification saved my entire collection from salt buildup and damage last summer.
Scientific Basis
- Mimics natural rainforest conditions where orchids receive diluted nutrients in frequent rainfall
- Provides consistent nutrient supply without overwhelming sensitive root systems
- Prevents salt accumulation that occurs with less frequent, full-strength applications
- Supports steady growth by matching nutrient availability to absorption capacity
Standard Dilution Formula
- General rule: Dilute fertilizer to 1/4 strength of package recommendation
- For 20-20-20 fertilizers: Use 1/2 teaspoon per gallon instead of 2 teaspoons
- For specialty formulas like MSU: Maintain 1 teaspoon per gallon during growth periods
- Always measure precisely with calibrated spoons - never estimate quantities
Application Timing
- Apply early morning when stomata are open for maximum nutrient absorption
- Water first with pure water to moisten roots before applying fertilizer solution
- Avoid midday applications when temperatures exceed 80 °F (27 °C)
- Suspend during dormancy periods except for continuous-growth tropical varieties
Genera-Specific Adjustments
- Phalaenopsis: Standard dilution with extra calcium during active growth
- Cattleya: Reduce nitrogen during bud formation for better flowering
- Vanda: Increase potassium in high-humidity environments
- Paphiopedilum: Skip winter fertilization during dormancy periods
Monthly Flush Protocol
- Essential fourth-week procedure to leach accumulated salts from potting medium
- Use 2-3 times pot volume of pure water (rainwater or reverse osmosis preferred)
- Test runoff TDS - flush until measurements drop below 100 ppm
- Never fertilize during flush week to allow complete salt removal
Seasonal Schedule & Adjustments
Once the temperatures reach or surpass the 60°F level in the spring, you will need to increase your fertilizer concentrations. I will bump up my MSU formula from 3/4 to 1 teaspoon once I start seeing new growth and add CalMag every week for the fastest growing Phalaenopsis orchid. When it is raining heavily, you may want to reduce feeding because the nutrients can be easily washed out.
The summer requires close timing to utilize the plant's full-strength formulations, but suspend applications for a period above 85°F. Use MaxSea every third feeding if your plants begin to exhibit signs of stress from heat. Water the roots thoroughly first. If you are located in high-humidity regions and do not want to hinder growth/risk fungal issues from constantly wet media, begin to cut back the frequency of your feedings.
Autumn marks the time for a gradual decrease in inputs. Nitrogen can be reduced as temperatures begin to fall below 70°F. By October, decrease MSU from 1 teaspoon to 3/4 teaspoon. Phosphorus-rich formulas are used to prepare growth tissue for hardening before the onset of cold weather. And, in cold climates, stop feeding six weeks before the risks of frost.
For many orchids, winter is the season of dormancy. For winter growers, such as oncidiums, use half-strength solutions. For deciduous dendrobiums, suspend feeding entirely. Water the plant minimally with room-temperature water. To help the water absorb into the plant, keep the humidity at 40% in heated homes.
Spring Adjustments
- Begin increasing fertilizer strength as temperatures consistently exceed 60 °F (15 °C)
- Transition from 3/4 tsp to 1 tsp MSU formula as new growth appears
- Add CalMag supplement weekly for rapid-growing phalaenopsis varieties
- Monitor rainfall - reduce frequency during wet periods to prevent nutrient leaching
Summer Management
- Maintain full-strength feeding (1 tsp MSU) but avoid applications above 85 °F (29 °C)
- Increase potassium for heat stress resistance using MaxSea every third feeding
- Water thoroughly before fertilizing to prevent root burn in high temperatures
- In humid climates, reduce frequency to prevent fungal issues in saturated media
Fall Transition
- Gradually reduce nitrogen as temperatures drop below 70 °F (21 °C)
- Shift from 1 tsp to 3/4 tsp MSU formula by late October
- Prioritize phosphorus-rich feeds to harden growth before winter dormancy
- Complete all fertilizing 6 weeks before first frost date in cold regions
Winter Protocol
- Use 1/2 strength solutions (1/4 tsp balanced fertilizer) for winter-growing orchids
- Suspend feeding completely for deciduous varieties like dendrobiums
- Water sparingly with room-temperature water before any fertilizing
- In heated homes, maintain humidity above 40% to support nutrient uptake
Climate Exceptions
- Tropical zones: Continue year-round feeding with reduced strength in rainy seasons
- Arid regions: Increase micronutrient supplements due to rapid evaporation
- Coastal areas: Account for salt spray by using extra pure water flushes
- Always adjust based on visible growth signals rather than strict calendar dates
5 Common Myths
Orchids do not require fertilizer because they obtain all nutrients in a natural way from the air and water
Native orchids absorb some nutrients from humid air and rainwater, but potted orchids rely only on limited potting media, which usually doesn't contain any necessary minerals that those orchids need. Without regular fertilizer, these plants can become nutrient deficient, resulting in yellow leaves, stunted growth, and a lack of blooming even after years of proper care. Scientific studies of epiphytic root systems confirm that orchids evolved to absorb nutrients from decomposing organic matter while in the canopy of a tree.
Using too much fertilizer will improve overall growth and flowering for all types of orchid varieties
Overfeeding leads to salt accumulation and burns velamen roots and blocks nutrient intake, which could kill the plant. Different orchid genera have specific nutitional needs. For example, cattleyas do better with lower nitrogen when they are buding, and phalaenopsis like calcium all the time. Orchids receiving excess fertilizer typically have lush growth but don't flower, illustrating that proper nutrition is important, but not an abundance of it.
Regular garden fertilizers are just as effective for all orchid types as the specialized mixtures are
General fertilizers often use urea-based nitrogen, which orchids cannot utilize efficiently and accumulate to toxic levels. Orchid-specific fertilizers, such as MSU, provide nitrate nitrogen and balanced ratios of calcium-magnesium that match the chemistry of rains. Water quality also has a dramatic impact on fertilizer efficiency, as hard water can necessitate specialized low-pH formulations to release minerals that the roots cannot absorb.
Natural fertilizers such as banana peels or eggshells are too weak to provide any benefit for orchids
Organic options provide slow-release nutrients that chemical formulas cannot match - for example, banana peels leach potassium over the period of months, which strengthens the plant's cell walls and allows for better retention of the bloom, while eggshells also work for months to release calcium carbonate which prevents blossom end rot. If you prepare it correctly, the natural fertilizers are an excellent source of micronutrients including zinc and iron, which are in the plant-available form and help create mycorrhizal partnerships that are essential for nutrient absorption.
Giving dormant orchids food promotes needless early growth and faster bloom cycles.
Foliage fertilization during resting periods, as the metabolic reaction is lowered 70-90%, translates into "overwhelming" plants with PLANT FOOD and simply unable to process nutrient. This forces energy into weaker, etiolated growth cycles as to not spur on the spike of flower development. In particular, Dendrobiums and deciduous types risk root loss by feeding during their resting period, which can delay blooming by an entire season to recover.
Conclusion
Regular balanced fertilization is the key to orchid health. Continue to use the weekly method we talked about. Fertilizer strength should match the growth stage of the orchid. Each season, your plants will reward you with thriving roots and stunning flowers. This method never disappoints if you stick with it.
Do not forget the two non-negotiables: water quality test before feeding and seasonal adjustments of the feeding plan. These two things decide whether or not the nutrients you provided get to the orchid. I learned from trial and error that it is better to not even bother with the fertilizer itself as it creates more of an issue than neglecting both of these. Make them your habits.
Real mastery comes in simply watching your orchids every day. Watch the leaves to see how they respond after you feed them. Watch for root tips that are starting to grow. Many of the techniques you read about can be adjusted for your plants based on what they show you. Each plant will indicate what it needs from you. Follow their lead, more than you might follow a schedule.
You now possess everything needed for success, and you must remain patient as you utilize these methods. Start simply with water testing and weekly feeds, and build up from there. Your successfully growing orchid collection will become the greatest reward from being attentive to your growing conditions.
External Sources
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best way to fertilize orchids?
The optimal approach is the weekly weakly method: apply highly diluted fertilizer weekly during active growth seasons. Use balanced orchid-specific formulas at quarter strength to prevent salt buildup while ensuring consistent nutrient availability that mimics natural rainforest conditions.
Is coffee grounds safe for orchids?
Yes, rinsed coffee grounds provide beneficial nitrogen when used sparingly. Apply one tablespoon monthly after thorough rinsing and drying to remove acidity. This improves soil structure while gradually releasing nitrogen without altering pH beyond optimal orchid ranges.
When should you avoid fertilizing orchids?
Suspend fertilization during dormancy periods when plants show no active growth. Also avoid feeding in extreme heat above 90°F, when media is completely dry, or with stressed plants recovering from repotting or disease for at least four weeks.
What are critical water quality factors?
Essential water parameters include:
- pH between 5.5-6.3 for nutrient absorption
- TDS below 100 ppm to prevent mineral buildup
- Temperature of 65-75°F to avoid root shock
- Absence of chlorine and heavy metals
Why avoid Miracle-Gro for orchids?
Miracle-Gro contains urea-based nitrogen that orchids cannot efficiently process, leading to toxic salt accumulation. Its improper NPK ratios lack essential calcium and magnesium required for healthy root development and flowering in epiphytic plants.
How do natural fertilizers compare?
Organic options like eggshells and banana peels offer slow-release nutrients with unique benefits:
- Calcium carbonate strengthens cell walls
- Potassium enhances disease resistance
- Micronutrients support mycorrhizal partnerships
- Avoid chemical buildup but require proper preparation
What indicates orchid fertilizer stress?
Stress symptoms include leaf tip burn from salt accumulation, yellowing lower leaves indicating nitrogen toxicity, stunted root growth showing mineral lockout, and failure to bloom despite healthy foliage from nutrient imbalances.
How often should orchids be fertilized?
Frequency varies seasonally:
- Weekly during spring/summer active growth
- Biweekly in autumn as growth slows
- Monthly for winter-growing varieties
- Complete suspension for deciduous types in dormancy
Are Epsom salts beneficial?
Epsom salts provide magnesium which aids chlorophyll production when used sparingly. Dissolve one teaspoon per gallon monthly during growth phases for magnesium-deficient plants showing interveinal yellowing, but never substitute for balanced nutrition.
How should beginners start fertilizing?
Novices should:
- Begin with quarter-strength balanced formulas
- Apply only to moist roots in early morning
- Use the weekly weakly method consistently
- Prioritize monthly flushing with pure water
- Document plant responses to adjust schedules