How to Care for Hydrangea: Complete Growing Guide

Written by
Michael Sullivan
Reviewed by
Prof. Martin Thorne, Ph.D.Learn how to plant and care for hydrangea with adequate exposure to sunlight: morning sun with shade in the afternoon.
You can create bloom colors in these plants by adjusting the soil's pH: they will bloom blue pH acidic and pink pH alkaline.
Water flowers well and deeply throughout the early growing season once or twice a week; check 4 inches below the surface to avoid root rot.
Prune flowers based on the bloom wood type: old wood is pruned after flowering; new wood is pruned in late winter.
You can fertilize your flowers with a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer in spring and fall; don't use high nitrogen formulas; they promote foliage growth over blooms.
In the winter, protect flowers with a 6-inch thick mulch bed and burlap wraps if the temperature is under 20°F (-7°C).
Article Navigation
Understanding how to care for hydrangeas is rewarding, as they are a delightful addition to any garden. Gardeners love the large flower clusters that produce bright color every season. Hydrangeas are adaptable to a variety of garden styles, from cottage gardens to sleek, modern containers. They are a versatile shrub that has remained a favorite for yards in various climates.
Effective hydrangea care hinges upon three important practices. First, select a location with morning sun and afternoon shade for planting. Second, amend the soil with organic matter and drainage. Third, modify seasonal care for watering and protection. These steps help create suitable growing conditions.
This method is enabled with even beginner gardening lovers. It is easy to begin with quality plants purchased at garden centers. Just water at defined intervals and prune them back during dormant seasons. Your rewards will be dazzling blooms in gardens through summer and fall. Hydrangeas beautify gardens and reveal that everyone can achieve great gardens.
Essential Growing Conditions
Hydrangeas do best with 4 -6 hours of morning sun and afternoon shade protection. Morning sun protects the leaves from scorching and provides ample energy to the flower. In even hotter climates (zone 7 and above), the afternoon should have more shade coverage during the summer. Exposure to light is critical for healthy growth, which in turn leads to blooms throughout the season.
Bloom color for bigleaf varieties is significantly influenced by soil chemistry. Acidic soils with a pH lower than 6 will produce blue flowers. In comparison, alkaline conditions with a pH higher than 7 will yield pink flowers. Test the soil pH annually with a kit from your local garden center. Apply aluminum sulfate for blue flowers or lime for pink flowers.
To maintain moisture consistently apply 1 inch of water per week. Finger test: insert your finger in the soil 4 inches deep. Water if it feels dry at that depth. Deep watering also promotes root growth and prevents drought stress with summer heat waves.
In the early spring and again in the fall, fertilize hydrangeas with a 10-10-10 NPK fertilizer that is balanced. Do not apply high-nitrogen formulations, as they only promote leaf growth on plants, not flowers. Use as directed on the package; water thoroughly afterward. Feeding hydrangeas properly supports beautiful blooms and reduces unwanted leaf growth.
Sunlight
- Hydrangeas require 4-6 hours of morning sunlight with afternoon shade protection. Direct midday sun causes leaf scorch in warmer climates, while insufficient light reduces blooming intensity. East-facing locations provide ideal conditions.
- In cooler regions (zones 3-5), some panicle varieties tolerate full sun if soil moisture is maintained. Monitor for wilting during heat waves above 85°F (29°C), indicating need for temporary shading.
Soil
- Plant in moist, well-draining soil rich in organic matter like compost or leaf mold. Amend heavy clay with 30% perlite and sandy soil with 40% compost for optimal texture.
- Soil pH determines bloom color for macrophylla varieties: blue in acidic soil (pH 5.2-5.5), pink in alkaline (pH 6.0-6.2). Test pH annually using kits or extension services, adjusting with aluminum sulfate for blue or lime for pink blooms.
Water
- Water deeply 1-2 times weekly, providing 1 gallon (3.8 liters) per square foot during dry spells. Check moisture by inserting finger 4 inches (10 cm) deep; water when dry.
- Apply 2-3 inches (5-7.6 cm) of organic mulch to retain moisture. Avoid overhead watering to prevent fungal diseases; instead use soaker hoses or drip irrigation at soil level.
Fertilizer
- Use balanced 10-10-10 NPK fertilizer twice yearly: early spring before bud break and early fall after blooming. Apply 1/2 cup (120g) per plant around drip line, not stems.
- Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers which promote leaves over blooms. For container plants, use half-strength liquid fertilizer monthly during growing season from April to August.
Temperature and Hardiness
- Hydrangeas thrive in daytime temperatures of 65-75°F (18-24°C). Most varieties survive winter temperatures down to -20°F (-29°C) when properly mulched.
- Protect plants when temperatures drop below 20°F (-7°C) with 6 inches of straw mulch. Wrap burlap around stakes for wind protection in exposed locations. Potted plants require garage shelter below 25°F (-4°C).
Planting and Repotting
Plant hydrangeas in the spring after the last frost has occurred or the early fall before the first frost. Either season has mild temperatures, which allows the roots to become established. Whenever possible, planting in summer should be avoided, as heat is an additional stress on the plant. When planted in the fall, the roots can set before the winter dormancy begins.
Make holes twice as wide as root balls, but of the exact depth as the nursery pot. Planting too deeply causes root rot. When planting in containers, use pots with drainage holes and a high-quality potting mix. When planting in the ground, loosen any compacted soil in the area and incorporate compost to improve soil quality.
There are notable differences in drainage requirements between ground- and container-cultivated plants. When planting in garden beds, incorporate elements to encourage proper soil drainage, especially in clay areas (for example, gravel). When planting in containers, be sure to use a type of drainage substrate, such as broken pottery, at a depth of 1-2 inches at the bottom of the container. In both instances, the goal is to prevent waterlogged roots.
Select high-quality container materials such as plastic or fiberglass as opposed to terracotta. Terracotta is prone to cracking during freeze-thaw cycles. Repot every couple of years in early spring or in advance of the flowering period. Refresh the soil trim by circling the roots and size up if the roots fill the container.
Timing
- Plant in early spring after last frost or early fall 6 weeks before first frost. Soil temperatures should be between 50-60°F (10-15 °C) for root establishment.
- Avoid summer planting in hot climates where temperatures exceed 85°F (29 °C), which stresses plants. Fall planting allows roots to establish before winter dormancy.
Hole Preparation
- Dig hole twice as wide as root ball but same depth. Roughen sides with shovel tines to encourage root penetration beyond planting hole.
- For heavy clay soils, create drainage layer with 2 inches (5 cm) gravel. Mix native soil with 25% compost for backfill nutrition.
Plant Placement
- Position root ball level with ground surface. Spread roots outward if pot-bound. Fill gaps with soil-compost mix, firming gently to eliminate air pockets.
- Water immediately with 2 gallons (7.5 L) per plant. Create soil berm 6 inches (15 cm) high around perimeter to direct water to roots.
Spacing Requirements
- Space hydrangeas 3-10 feet (0.9-3 m) apart depending on mature size. Compact varieties need 3-4 feet (0.9-1.2 m), large panicle types require 8-10 feet (2.4-3 m).
- Proper spacing improves air circulation to prevent fungal diseases and allows full canopy development without crowding.
Mulching Techniques
- Apply 2-3 inches (5-7.6 cm) organic mulch around plants, keeping 3 inches (7.6 cm) from stems. Replenish annually to maintain depth and suppress weeds.
- Use shredded bark, straw, or leaf mold. Avoid fresh wood chips which deplete nitrogen during decomposition.
Container Selection
- Choose 16-24 inch (40-60 cm) diameter pots with drainage holes. Plastic or fiberglass withstands freeze-thaw cycles better than ceramic.
- For dwarf varieties, minimum 10-inch (25 cm) depth. Ensure pot weight accommodates mature plant height to prevent tipping.
Soil and Planting
- Use 70% potting mix + 30% compost blend. Add perlite for drainage if mix lacks aeration. Fill to 2 inches (5 cm) below rim.
- Center plant at original depth. Water until it drains from bottom. Top with 1 inch (2.5 cm) mulch to retain moisture.
Repotting Process
- Repot every 3 years in early spring. Water plant before removal. Trim circling roots and remove 1/3 of root mass.
- Use fresh soil mix. Position in larger pot if roots fill container. Water thoroughly and place in shade for 1 week.
Drainage Solutions
- Place 1-2 inch (2.5-5 cm) layer of gravel or broken pottery at pot bottom. Use potting mix with 25% perlite or pumice.
- Elevate pots on feet to prevent waterlogging. Never let containers sit in saucers of standing water overnight.
Winter Protection
- Wrap containers in bubble wrap when temperatures drop below 25°F (-4 °C). Move to unheated garage or against sheltered wall.
- Water monthly during winter dormancy. Avoid fertilizing until spring growth resumes.
Pruning and Maintenance
Pruning approaches are solely reliant on whether your hydrangea blooms on old or new wood. Three varieties, bigleaf and oakleaf, form their buds on old wood, so prune them soon after the summer blooms have faded. Panicle and smooth hydrangeas bloom on new wood, so prune them back at any time during the late winter months before spring growth begins.
It's important to sanitize your pruning tools with an antiseptic solution between plants. Making clean cuts on plant stems may reduce the chance of disease transmission. I disinfect my bypass pruning shears after using them on every shrub. During the growing season, sharpen pruner blades every month or as needed for clean cuts that heal quickly. Dull or damaged tools compress the stem, creating openings that allow disease and insect problems to occur.
Pruning time according to the growth cycle of each variety. If the plant blooms from old wood, as in the case of Endless Summer, prune spent blooms throughout the summer. If it blooms from new wood, as with Limelight, then prune when the plant is dormant in the winter. Note: once August arrives, do not prune old wood bloomers as you will remove the blooms that show the following year.
Improper pruning practices can lead to significant problems associated with flowering. Removal of old wood species in the winter will cut off flower buds, leading to a lack of flowering altogether. Over-pruning will stress the plant, causing many blooms throughout the flowering cycle to become smaller. I pruned my Nikko Blue too late one season, which resulted in a complete loss of flowers that year. Always follow pruning guidelines specific to the type of plant you are pruning.
Old Wood Bloomers (e.g., H. macrophylla)
- Prune immediately after summer flowering finishes. Remove up to one-third of oldest stems at ground level to encourage new growth.
- Cut just above healthy buds at 45° angle. Never prune in fall/winter as this removes next season's flower buds.
New Wood Bloomers (e.g., H. paniculata)
- Prune in late winter/early spring before bud break. Cut stems back to 12-24 inches (30-60 cm) from ground.
- Remove thin, weak stems completely. Shape plant by cutting above outward-facing buds to encourage open growth habit.
Reblooming Varieties (e.g., Endless Summer)
- Prune spent blooms throughout summer to encourage new flowers. Cut stem below flowerhead just above first set of leaves.
- In spring, remove only dead wood identified by scratch test (brown under bark indicates dead tissue).
Oakleaf Hydrangeas (H. quercifolia)
- Minimal pruning needed. Remove dead/damaged wood in spring after frost danger passes.
- If reshaping, prune after flowering. Never cut back more than 20% of plant in one season.
Tool Maintenance
- Use bypass pruners for live wood; disinfect with 70% isopropyl alcohol between plants.
- Sharpen blades monthly during growing season. Replace tools if nicked or rusted to ensure clean cuts.
Seasonal Care Guide
Spring maintenance begins when daily temperatures consistently exceed 50°F (10°C). They start to sprout in small sections, and their winter mulch can be removed incrementally. Use a balanced fertilizer and check for aphids by spraying with a soapy water solution. This is the same time of year the buds are forming and preparing the coast for what will become summer flowers.
Careful watering is essential in hot summer months when the temperature exceeds 85°F (29°C). Water deeply at the soil line and avoid any wet foliage to prevent the development of powdery mildew. Deadhead spent blooms once a week to help reblooming varieties. When first planting in hot regions, be sure to use afternoon shade for developing flowers.
Fall preparation is different, based on climate zone: 1)For cold zones 5 and below, mulch after first frost- blankets of 6 inches are appropriate, 2) For shrubs, burlap wrap when temperature falls below 20°F (-7°C), and 3) remove any fallen leaves to eliminate overwintering pests and disease.
Winter protection is crucial for maintaining bud health, ensuring you have flowers next year. For container plants, move them under cover or into an unheated garage if the temperature drops below 25°F (-4°C). You should also water dormant plants during dry spells once a month. If you have plants that are new-wood varieties, prune them only on mild winter days.
Spring Care
- Apply slow-release 10-10-10 fertilizer when new growth reaches 2 inches (5 cm). Prune dead wood identified by scratch test.
- Monitor for aphids; spray with insecticidal soap at first sign. Divide and transplant overcrowded plants before leaf expansion.
- Treat aphids with neem oil or insecticidal soap immediately upon detection. Adjust soil pH if changing bloom color: add aluminum sulfate for blue or lime for pink flowers.
Summer Care
- Water deeply 3 times weekly during heat waves above 85°F (29 °C). Apply 2 inches (5 cm) fresh mulch to conserve moisture.
- Deadhead spent blooms weekly to encourage reblooming. Watch for powdery mildew; improve airflow if detected.
- Provide afternoon shade in hot climates. Suspend fertilizing after July to prevent tender new growth.
Fall Care
- Prune old-wood bloomers after final flowering. Collect 6-inch (15 cm) stem cuttings for propagation.
- Apply potassium-rich fertilizer to strengthen roots before winter. Stop deadheading to allow seedhead formation.
- Install windbreaks in exposed areas. Wrap base with 6 inches (15 cm) straw mulch after first frost.
Winter Care
- Prune new-wood varieties in late winter. Shape tree-form hydrangeas before spring growth.
- Water potted plants monthly if stored in garages. Check for rodent damage around bases.
- In zones below 5, wrap shrubs in burlap secured to stakes. Avoid direct contact with foliage.
Year-Round Monitoring
- Test soil pH quarterly if manipulating bloom color. Maintain 4-6 inch (10-15 cm) organic mulch layer.
- Sterilize tools with alcohol after each use. Remove fallen leaves to prevent disease carryover.
- Inspect weekly for pests. Encourage beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewings as natural predators.
Hydrangea Types Simplified
Bigleaf hydrangeas have a flowering habit that produces mophead or lacecap blooms from summer through fall, and exhibit unique color-changing characteristics due to soil conditions. The pH of soil determines the color of flowers, which changes from blue in acidic conditions to pink in alkaline conditions. These shrubs grow 3-6 feet tall and require afternoon shade in warmer climates, and they flower only on old wood. Prune only after flowering.
Panicle hydrangeas are unique because they produce clusters of white flowers in the form of elongated cones, which will gradually become pink regardless of soil elements. These reach between 6 and 15 feet tall and can withstand full-sun exposure, which is particularly beneficial for cooler areas. Panicle hydrangeas are new-wood bloomers that can handle late winter heavy pruning. They are robust performers in cold hardiness zones 3 to 8, making them flexible.
Oakleaf varieties offer year-round interest, with summer flowers, stunning fall color, and peeling bark throughout the winter. They tend to grow 4-8 feet tall, prefer at least partial shade conditions, and require very little pruning since breeding occurs on the previous year's growth. They are drought-tolerant following establishment, making them ideally suited for water-conserving gardens.
Smooth Hydrangeas produce large, snowball blooms throughout summer and fall, never changing their color from white. They are compact plants, reaching a height of 3 to 5 feet, and tolerate full shade better than other types. They thrive in zone 3 and are hardy enough to endure severe winters, as well as tolerate spring renewal pruning each year.
Bigleaf Hydrangea (H. macrophylla)
- Produces mophead or lacecap blooms summer through fall. Flower color changes with soil pH: blue in acidic, pink in alkaline soil.
- Grows 3-6 feet (0.9-1.8 m) tall. Requires afternoon shade in hot climates. Blooms on old wood; prune after flowering.
- Notable cultivars: 'Nikko Blue' (vibrant blue), 'Endless Summer' (reblooming)
Panicle Hydrangea (H. paniculata)
- Cone-shaped white flowers summer to fall, aging to pink. Does not change color with soil pH. Tolerates full sun in cool climates.
- Reaches 6-15 feet (1.8-4.6 m). Blooms on new wood; prune heavily in late winter. Resistant to cold (zones 3-8).
- Notable cultivars: 'Limelight' (lime-green blooms), 'Pinky Winky' (bicolor flowers)
Oakleaf Hydrangea (H. quercifolia)
- Produces white cone-shaped flowers in early summer. Features dramatic burgundy fall foliage and exfoliating bark.
- Grows 4-8 feet (1.2-2.4 m). Prefers partial shade. Blooms on old wood; minimal pruning needed. Drought-tolerant once established.
- Notable cultivars: 'Snow Queen' (large flowers), 'Ruby Slippers' (compact form)
Smooth Hydrangea (H. arborescens)
- Large white snowball blooms summer through fall. No color change with pH. Tolerates full shade better than other types.
- Compact 3-5 feet (0.9-1.5 m). Blooms on new wood; can be cut to ground annually. Cold-hardy (zones 3-9).
- Notable cultivars: 'Annabelle' (massive flowers), 'Incrediball' (strong stems)
Mountain Hydrangea (H. serrata)
- Delicate lacecap flowers summer to fall. Color changes with soil pH similar to bigleaf varieties. Hardy in zones 5-9; more cold-tolerant than H. macrophylla.
- Grows 2-4 feet (0.6-1.2 m). Prefers morning sun. Blooms on old wood; light pruning after flowering.
- Notable cultivars: 'Tuff Stuff' (reblooming), 'Bluebird' (vibrant blue)
5 Common Myths
There is an incorrect belief that all varieties of hydrangeas will change their flower color based on soil pH levels
Only bigleaf (Hydrangea macrophylla) and mountain (Hydrangea serrata) varieties will change their bloom color based on soil acidity. The panicle, oakleaf, and smooth hydrangeas will have flowers that remain the same color regardless of pH levels. It is a waste of amendments, and can even harm plants, to try to change colors on the varieties that do not respond. White-flowered varieties, like 'Annabelle', are unaffected by changes in soil chemistry.
Hydrangeas should be pruned in the fall
When it comes to pruning time depends on what type of blooming wood: if you have an old-wood bloomer like the bigleaf hydrangea, you'll need to prune them soon after blooming in the summer, on the other hand, if you have a new-wood bloomer like the panicle hydrangeas, you would prune it in late-winter. If you prune old-wood varieties in the fall, you will prune away any developing buds and lose all flowers set for the following year. Understand the type of hydrangea you have before you prune.
A number of gardeners wrongly think that hydrangeas grow best in full shade conditions
Most hydrangea types want at least 4 to 6 hours of direct sunlight each day to bloom well. They can tolerate partial shade, but if they don't receive enough sunlight their blooms will lose quality, and produce weak leggy growth. They should be kept in full shade only if your are in the hottest area (zones 8-9). In most cases, say around zone 7 and below, the best display is with a little morning sun, and a little shade from the sun during the hottest part of the afternoon.
Potted hydrangeas usually perish after a single season.
Culture hydrangeas are from pots and can live for years with proper care. Winter protection is needed. When temperatures dip below 25 °F (-4C), move the pots to unheated garages. Monthly watering in the winter months virtually ensures survival. Keep the pots insulated with bubble wrap. Most hydrangea cultivars can survive in pots for 5 years or more with proper winter care and repotting with fresh soil and root pruning every 2-3 years.
Coffee grounds can quickly make soil acidic
Coffee grounds decay slowly and only slightly reduce the pH level (0.1-0.2 points). To lower pH reliably for blue hydrangeas, use aluminum sulfate at 1 tbsp per gallon each month during the growing season. Tests to determine soil pH should be done before any amendments are applied. Too much acidification could harm roots. Coffee grounds and other organic matter can improve soil texture, however, they cannot take the place of higher-mineral specific amendments.
Conclusion
Hydrangeas are extremely versatile garden plants that have beautiful blooms and seasonal changes. Hydrangeas excel in their ability to adapt to a wide range of landscapes, from formal border settings to cottage gardens. They should be considered stunning shrubs that require minimal care, yet look great, while providing consistent reliability to gardeners in all climate zones.
Follow the care methods indicated for watering, pruning, and protection of the plants. Your regular diligence in care will help the plants to flourish. Note the seasonal timing of each care task, especially when pruning types of hydrangea. Proper care will promote a healthy growth habit and plentiful blooms.
Appreciate visual interest all year round from the fresh leaves of spring to the vibrant flowers of summer. Colors shift dramatically in the fall with oakleaf types. Winter bears a beautiful bark texture. This results in continual interest, which gives hydrangeas substantial value as 4-season plants in your garden plan.
People with any level of experience can successfully garden with hydrangeas. For novice gardeners, their forgiving nature is enjoyable, while more advanced gardeners appreciate the ability to manipulate color. Start with hardy varieties, such as a panicle hydrangea, before experimenting with the more sensitive types. You'll be on your way to growing these extraordinary plants in no time.
External Sources
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the fundamental care requirements for hydrangeas?
Hydrangeas need morning sunlight with afternoon shade, consistent moisture without waterlogging, acidic soil for blue blooms or alkaline for pink, and seasonal pruning based on bloom type. Annual fertilization with balanced 10-10-10 NPK supports healthy growth and flowering.
How should I prune different hydrangea varieties?
Pruning depends entirely on whether your hydrangea blooms on old or new wood:
- Old wood bloomers: Prune immediately after summer flowering
- New wood bloomers: Cut back in late winter
- Reblooming varieties: Deadhead spent blooms throughout summer
- Never prune old-wood types in fall/winter to avoid bud loss
Can hydrangeas survive winter in cold climates?
Most hydrangeas tolerate freezing temperatures with proper protection. Apply 6 inches of mulch around the base after first frost, wrap shrubs in burlap below 25°F (-4°C), and water potted plants monthly during dormancy. Panicle varieties handle the coldest zones (3-4).
Why aren't my hydrangeas blooming?
Non-blooming typically results from incorrect pruning timing, insufficient sunlight, or nutrient imbalance. Old-wood varieties won't flower if pruned in winter, while plants getting less than 4 hours of sun produce fewer blooms. Excess nitrogen fertilizer also promotes leaves over flowers.
How do I change my hydrangea's flower color?
Color changes only work on bigleaf and mountain hydrangeas through soil pH manipulation:
- For blue blooms: Maintain pH 5.2-5.5 with aluminum sulfate
- For pink blooms: Maintain pH 6.0-6.2 with garden lime
- Apply amendments gradually over 2-3 months
- Test soil pH quarterly for maintenance
Can I grow hydrangeas in containers?
Absolutely. Use 16-24 inch pots with drainage holes, quality potting mix amended with compost, and water when top 2 inches dry. Repot every 2-3 years, provide winter insulation below 25°F (-4°C), and dwarf varieties work best for limited spaces.
How often should I water hydrangeas?
Water deeply 1-2 times weekly, providing about 1 gallon per plant. Check soil moisture 4 inches down - water when dry. Increase frequency during heat waves above 85°F (29°C), and always use mulch to retain moisture between waterings.
What causes hydrangea leaves to turn yellow?
Yellowing typically indicates improper pH, nutrient deficiency, or overwatering. Test soil pH first - iron deficiency shows in alkaline soils. Apply chelated iron for chlorosis, reduce watering if soil is soggy, and ensure balanced fertilization without excess nitrogen.
Are coffee grounds effective for hydrangeas?
Coffee grounds provide minimal pH adjustment (0.1-0.2 points) while improving soil texture. They won't reliably turn hydrangeas blue - use aluminum sulfate instead for significant color change. Incorporate grounds into compost rather than applying directly.
How long do hydrangea plants live?
With proper care, most hydrangeas thrive for 20-30 years. Oakleaf varieties often live 50+ years. Key longevity factors include correct pruning, winter protection in cold zones, disease prevention, and avoiding root disturbance through unnecessary transplanting.