How to Care for Air Plants: Expert Guide
Written by
Liu Xiaohui
Reviewed by
Prof. Charles Hartman, Ph.D.Understand how to properly care for air plants regarding lighting, watering, and airflow.
Mount plants on porous surfaces, such as driftwood, to allow for airflow and easy watering.
Once a month, fertilize the plant during the spring and summer growth periods using a diluted bromeliad formula.
Keep the plant in an environment with a temperature between 50-90°F and a humidity level between 40-60% for continued development.
Allow the plants to soak in filtered water for one hour once a week and ensure that the plants dry completely in four hours or less.
Blooms are natural parts of the lifecycle of the plant and will happen before the pups are produced.
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Understanding the unique nature of air plants is the first step in learning how to care for air plants. Air plants, to clarify, are fascinating, very different from traditional plants. They are epiphytes and grow without soil, with their roots used only for anchorage, often on the branches of trees in natural environments. Their roots are not used to absorb nutrients. Consequently, the traditional rules of caring for plants do not apply to air plants. So, you can change your mindset.
A successful air plant-growing foundation consists of three essential elements: light, water, and air. Bright filtered sunlight powers their growth, while watering in soakings every 7 days is also essential for proper hydration. Air circulation is also vital to keep the plant from rotting between waterings. Light, water, and air are all intertwined to create a place that supports great conditions for plants survival. If any of these conditions are missed, the health of the plant will be compromised.
In addition to their visual appeal, air plants also help remove indoor air pollutants and provide oxygen at night, which could be an asset in a bedroom. My own personal space has evolved into a Tillandsia collection that has taken many years to develop. I hope this brief guide provides simple directions for caring for both novice and experienced air plant growers.
Creative Display Ideas
Airflow governs choices in display for air plants: stagnant air will lead to rot, thus displays must allow for circulation. Do not choose sealed containers or too densely populated arrangements. Rather, you should choose an open design where air circulation flows freely around every leaf. This simple concept prevents the majority of health problems.
Every setup for the display should allow for easy removal for watering. Testing out setups before you commit to securing plants permanently is always best practice. My favorite method is to use removable magnetic mounts that sit just below the surface of a refrigerator. However, driftwood with removable fishing line loops is great too! You should be able to access your plants in just a few seconds.
Diversified choices will fit any decor approach. A modern home will shine with geometric wire frame mounts. A rustic room will be invigorated with cork bark mounts. A Bohemian room will appreciate macramé hangers. I even use holiday-themed clips to make a seasonal display. Your ingenuity provides the limits.
The type of materials used is relevant to plant health. Materials to consider using are stainless steel, fishing line, and untreated wood. Avoid using copper wire, which releases toxic ions as it breaks down. Glue should be avoided because it will destroy the trichomes. Choose mechanical attachments over glue or chemical binders. The materials you decide to use become integrated into the care regimens of your cannabis plants.
Glass Terrariums
- Open-top glass containers provide essential ventilation while showcasing plants beautifully. Choose designs with wide openings to prevent moisture buildup that causes rot development.
- Place small stones at the bottom to elevate plants above potential water collection. Avoid fully enclosed containers which restrict airflow and trap humidity.
- Remove plants during watering routines and ensure complete drying before returning to display. Regularly check for condensation indicating poor ventilation conditions.
Driftwood Mounts
- Natural wood surfaces offer organic texture while allowing secure root attachment. Select weathered driftwood pieces with crevices that hold plants firmly without glue.
- Utilize cotton thread or fishing line to loosely attach plants without damage. Avoid staples or nails that pierce fleshy plant tissue causing permanent injury.
- Rotate wood pieces monthly to ensure even light distribution across all surfaces. Inspect attachment points during watering to prevent constriction as plants grow.
Hanging Wire Frames
- Customizable metal frames allow 360-degree viewing and excellent air circulation. Aluminum or stainless steel materials prevent corrosion and copper toxicity risks.
- Shape wires to gently cradle plants without squeezing delicate leaves. Maintain space between plant and frame for growth expansion and airflow movement.
- Detach entire structures during soaking sessions for thorough hydration. Dry upside down to prevent water pooling in wire joints after watering.
Ceramic Holders
- Glazed ceramic pieces offer decorative solutions with built-in drainage options. Select textured surfaces that grip plants securely without additional adhesives.
- Choose light-colored ceramics in warm climates to prevent root overheating issues. Ensure holders have sufficient base weight to avoid accidental tipping incidents.
- Immediately empty standing water after misting sessions to prevent rot. Clean mineral deposits monthly with soft brushes to maintain aesthetic appearance.
Cork Bark Holders
- Natural cork surfaces provide excellent moisture-wicking properties and breathability. Mount plants directly onto bark crevices without adhesives for secure placement.
- Select thick bark pieces with deep grooves for stable plant positioning. Avoid chemically treated cork that might harm sensitive trichome structures.
- Rotate displays seasonally to ensure even light exposure on all sides. Mist bark surfaces occasionally to maintain slight humidity around plant bases.
Magnetic Holders
- Magnetic mounts enable creative placement on refrigerators or metal surfaces. Use neodymium magnets encased in silicone to prevent metal contact with plants.
- Ensure magnet strength matches plant size to prevent accidental falls. Position away from appliance heat sources that could dehydrate plants.
- Detach holders weekly for thorough soaking and drying routines. Check magnet seals regularly to prevent water infiltration that causes rust.
Macrame Hangers
- Textured rope designs create bohemian displays with adjustable heights. Use natural cotton cords instead of synthetic materials for better moisture absorption.
- Knot designs should cradle plants without covering their light-receiving surfaces. Avoid tight weaves that restrict air movement around foliage.
- Untie knots periodically to prevent permanent indentations on leaves. Wash cotton cords quarterly to remove dust buildup affecting plant respiration.
Bookshelf Integrations
- Incorporate plants among books for unexpected natural accents. Position near shelf edges to ensure adequate light penetration reaches leaves.
- Elevate plants on small stands to avoid dust accumulation on leaves. Rotate positions weekly to compensate for uneven light distribution.
- Maintain distance from paper materials that might retain excess moisture. Use companion objects like stones to create humidity-retaining microclimates.
Wall Grid Panels
- Metal grid systems enable vertical gardens with modular arrangements. Secure plants using silicone-tipped clips that prevent leaf damage during placement.
- Position grids near bright windows but avoid direct afternoon sunlight. Maintain at least 2-inch spacing between plants for proper air circulation.
- Remove entire panels during watering for thorough soaking routines. Wipe grid surfaces monthly to prevent dust buildup restricting airflow.
Seashell Holders
- Natural shells create beach-themed displays with built-in drainage. Select large conch or scallop shells with deep cavities for stability.
- Rinse salt residues thoroughly before use to prevent chemical damage. Position shells on stands to allow air movement underneath the display.
- Empty collected water immediately after misting to prevent stagnation. Clean shell interiors monthly to avoid bacterial growth near plant bases.
Air Plant Growth Cycle
Air plants originate as small pups that arise at the base of their mother plant. These tiny ones are even less than the length of your pinky nail. Pups gain their nutrients while still attached to their mother plant from fuzzy trichomes located on its leaves. The mother plant's access to nutrients provides it with a strong start. Your care of this plant during its pup stage will determine how it grows in the future.
In the life cycle of each air plant (Tillandsia), it will bloom only once in its life. This is something that surprises many new growers. Blooming can occur at any time after 1-3 years of the plant's growth. The spectacular flowers can last for weeks to months, depending on the species. The bloom indicates a significant transition point in the plant's life cycle, not the end.
Pup production begins either during or after the blooming phase. During this phase, the mother plant begins to divert its energy production from flower production to pup production, thereby producing offspring. You can expect 2-8 pups to form near the base of the mother plant. The pups grow steadily over a period of 4 to 12 months and become increasingly independent. My collection expanded without the need to buy plants because of these pups.
Once it has bloomed, the mother plant will slowly decline as she nourishes her pups. She will likely survive 1-3 more years producing her pups. Ultimately, be sure to remove the dry brown leaves, as they can lead to rot. The mother plant lives one last time, nourishing the next generation of air plants. The cycle continues indefinitely if left intact.
Pup Stage
- New plants emerge as small offsets at the mother plant's base after blooming begins. These pups start at approximately 0.5 inches (1.3 cm) with tightly curled leaves.
- Pups absorb moisture and nutrients through their developing trichomes. They remain attached to the mother plant for initial growth support during this phase.
Juvenile Growth
- Over 6-12 months, pups develop their own root systems while increasing to 30-50% of the mother's size. Leaves gradually unfurl to capture more light.
- Juvenile plants require consistent watering every 7-10 days. Their fuzzy trichomes become more prominent as they mature.
Maturity
- Plants reach full size in 1-3 years depending on species and environment. Mature tillandsias develop characteristic forms like rosettes or curling tendrils.
- At this stage, plants begin storing energy for reproduction. Some species exhibit blushing - leaf tips turning pink/red indicating impending bloom.
Blooming Phase
- Each air plant blooms only once in its lifetime, producing vibrant flowers lasting from several days to months. Bloom stalks emerge from the plant's center.
- Flowers attract pollinators in nature with bright colors and nectar. Common bloom colors include purple, red, and pink depending on the species.
Pup Production
- During or after blooming, plants generate 2-8 pups at their base. The mother plant channels energy into pup development rather than new leaves.
- Pups initially share nutrients with the mother plant. They become independent when reaching one-third her size, usually within 4-12 months post-bloom.
Mother Plant Decline
- After sustaining pups for 1-3 years, the mother plant gradually withers. Lower leaves brown and detach easily as energy transfers to offspring.
- Gently remove completely dry leaves to prevent rot. The plant completes its lifecycle once all leaves detach, leaving pups to continue growth.
Fertilizing for Healthier Plants
Opt for bromeliad fertilizer to provide your air plants with the ideal nutrition they need. Bromeliad fertilizer has a nutrient mix of 17-8-22 (as indicated by the NPK ratio), which provides precisely what air plants need. Mix it to 1/4 strength by adding 1 teaspoon per gallon of water. Common, all-purpose fertilizers require some additional caution. Dilute to 1/8 strength before application. Bromeliad blends also contain essential trace minerals, such as zinc.
Make fertilizing adjustments according to the seasons. Apply fertilizers monthly when plants are actively growing in the spring and summer months. In the fall and winter months, reduce fertilizer applications to approximately every 8-12 weeks. Most plants absorb fewer nutrients at temperatures below 60°F. I try to put fertilizer down when I water for efficiency's sake. Nutrient uptake will peak during the warm active growth part of the year.
Be on the lookout for signs of deficiency to remedy shortages. Brown tips can indicate a salt buildup from utilizing hard water. Light colored leaves may indicate a nitrogen deficiency. Stunted pups may be prone to a magnesium deficiency. Twisted growth can indicate an issue with not enough boron. My own plants bounced back quickly after I changed the type of fertilizer I was using to address specific topics.
Blooming plants have different nutritional needs than non-blooming plants. Before flowering, an increase in phosphorus will encourage budding. Bloom-booster formulas can be used at 1/4 or quarter strength. When flowers develop, fertilization should cease. Non-blooming plants need a balanced nutrition throughout the entire year. The distinction between blooming and non-blooming plants will help keep your plants performing at their best.
Bromeliad Fertilizers
- Specialized formulas contain ideal nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium ratios (e.g., 17-8-22) matching air plant needs. Dilute to 1/4 strength - 1 teaspoon per gallon (5ml per 4 liters) of water.
- Apply monthly during spring/summer growth periods. Contains trace minerals like boron and zinc that prevent leaf deformities.
Orchid Fertilizers
- Acceptable alternative with similar epiphyte nutrient profiles. Use at 1/8 strength - 1/2 teaspoon per gallon (2.5ml per 4 liters) due to higher salt content.
- Contains calcium that strengthens cell walls. Avoid urea-based formulas which can burn trichomes.
All-Purpose Formulas
- Balanced 10-10-10 fertilizers work if diluted to 1/8 strength. Add to soak water every 6-8 weeks during active growth.
- Lacks specialized micronutrients. Supplement with occasional rainwater soaks to provide natural minerals.
Application Methods
- Soak Method: Add fertilizer to immersion water for 20-30 minutes monthly. Ensures even nutrient absorption.
- Mist Application: Spray diluted solution on leaves between soaks. Use fine mist bottle for light coverage without drenching.
Seasonal Schedule
- Spring/Summer: Fertilize every 4 weeks during peak growth. Increase to biweekly for plants showing deficiency signs.
- Fall/Winter: Reduce to every 8-12 weeks. Dormant plants absorb fewer nutrients below 60°F (15°C).
Blooming Support
- Increase phosphorus before blooming season to encourage flower development. Use bloom-booster formulas at 1/4 strength.
- Discontinue fertilizing once flowers appear. Blooms last longer without nutrient stress on the plant.
Troubleshooting Issues
- Brown Tips: Indicates salt buildup. Rinse plants in distilled water and reduce fertilization frequency.
- Slow Growth: Sign of nitrogen deficiency. Increase dilution slightly or switch fertilizer types.
- Leaf Deformities: Caused by micronutrient shortages. Switch to specialized bromeliad formula.
Ideal Environment Setup
To encourage healthy growth, keep plants in a temperature range of 50°F to 90°F (10 °C to 32°C) at all times. A temperature below 45°F (7°C) will cause permanent damage to the cells. In comparison, a temperature of 95°F (35°C) or above will quickly dehydrate the plant. Avoid placing any plants near heating vents or air conditioning drafts. Maintaining steady temperatures will prevent plant stress. The plants around my home all thrive near north-facing windows without any direct sunlight or heating.
Use simple methods to manage humidity levels in your home. If the environment is dry, with a humidity level below 30%, you'll want to mist every 2-3 days. Place plants in groups to create a microclimate, or use pebble trays filled with water to add humidity. Suppose the environment is humid, with a relative humidity of over 70%. In that case, you will need to introduce more airflow to prevent your plants from rotting. Your local climate offers insight into how your plants are responding to your humidity needs.
The option you select can have a direct effect on airflow needs. Monofilament wire-framed applications encourage airflow. For plants in a terrarium, it's a good idea to maintain a 1-inch clearance around each plant. It may work well to just use small fans in stagnant rooms to promote airflow. It is essential to use no sealed containers at all. Mounts should allow for air movement from all sides. The best way to address any watering issues is to dry it all out first; this will reduce the risk of fungal issues.
Seasonal adjustments help us maintain optimal health year-round in our care of plants. During the summer, shade is needed from the blazing sun, and heat waves will require extra watering. For winter, we will want to water less frequently; timers can be set every ten to fourteen days, and additional lighting may be needed. I will rotate the plants weekly, even on shorter days, to ensure they are equally exposed. The key takeaway is that you will need to adjust your care to accommodate temperature fluctuations.
Temperature Range
- Maintain 50-90°F (10-32°C) for healthy growth. Below 45°F (7°C) causes cellular damage, while above 95°F (35°C) accelerates dehydration.
- Position plants away from heating vents in winter and air conditioning drafts in summer to avoid sudden temperature fluctuations.
Humidity Management
- Ideal humidity: 40-60%. Below 30% requires misting every 2-3 days; above 70% needs increased airflow to prevent rot.
- Group plants together to create microclimates. Use humidity trays with pebbles and water for dry environments.
Airflow Essentials
- Critical for drying within 4 hours post-watering. Use oscillating fans at low settings in stagnant rooms.
- Avoid enclosed containers without ventilation. Minimum 1-inch clearance around plants in terrariums.
Light Positioning
- Place within 3 feet of east/west windows. In low-light spaces, position 6-12 inches below fluorescent lights for 12 hours daily.
- Rotate plants weekly for even exposure. Signs of poor light: elongation (too little) or brown spots (too much direct sun).
Seasonal Adjustments
- Summer: Shield from direct afternoon sun with sheer curtains. Increase watering frequency during heat waves.
- Winter: Reduce watering to every 10-14 days. Use grow lights to compensate for shorter daylight hours below 60°F (15°C).
Outdoor Considerations
- Only suitable in USDA zones 9-11. Hang under tree canopies for dappled light protection.
- Bring indoors if temperatures drop below 50°F (10°C) overnight. Avoid windy areas that cause rapid drying.
Watering and Light Essentials
Soaking will deliver the deep moisture air plants need for optimal hydration. To soak a plant, submerge the plant in room-temperature water for 20-60 minutes once a week. Always shake off excess moisture from the plant after it has soaked. Misting is simply a method to supplement the hydration between soaks. Spraying plants with water until they glisten without creating pools is acceptable, but misting alone will not help sustain a healthy environment for long-term growth.
Modify your watering schedule according to light exposure. Areas with high indirect light will require more soaking than a brighter room. Decrease watering in shade spots. High light intensity increases evaporation rates quickly. Sunny windows allow plants to exhibit dehydration at a higher rate. Light and water must be in balance for the healthiest plants outdoors.
Look for leaf curling or wrinkles as signs of dehydration. These signs indicate that your plant may need a good soaking at this time. The silver trichomes will lose their fuzzy appearance when your plant needs water. Increase watering frequency by approximately 30%. My plants perked up in just a few days after I corrected their hydration.
Enhance poor light conditions with some simple ideas. Place plants between 6 and 12 inches below the full-spectrum bulbs for 12 hours a day. Water every 12-14 days in low-light situations. Move plants around the area each week to give each plant equal sunlight. These small adjustments promote growth in low-light conditions with no direct sunlight.
Soaking Method
- Submerge plants completely for 20-60 minutes in room-temperature rainwater or filtered tap water. Frequency: Weekly for most species, biweekly for xeric types.
- Always shake excess water from leaf bases after soaking. Turn upside down to prevent crown rot in bulbous species like Caput Medusae.
Misting Technique
- Use as supplemental hydration in dry climates (below 40% humidity). Spray until leaves glisten but avoid water pooling in displays.
- Mist 2-3 times weekly between soaks. Ineffective as sole watering method - cannot replace thorough soaking.
Light Intensity
- Bright indirect light is essential (east/west windows). Direct morning sun: max 2 hours; afternoon sun causes scorching.
- Artificial lighting: Position 6-36 inches below full-spectrum bulbs for 12 hours daily. Use timers for consistency.
Dehydration Signs
- Leaves curl tightly inward like rolled paper. Silver trichomes appear dull instead of fuzzy.
- Immediate action: Soak 1-2 hours, then increase watering frequency by 30%. Check light levels simultaneously.
Regional Adjustments
- Arid climates: Soak twice weekly; add misting. Humid regions: Soak every 10 days; ensure faster drying.
- Low-light areas: Water less frequently (every 12-14 days). Compensate with artificial lighting for photosynthesis.
Drying Protocol
- Critical: Dry completely within 4 hours post-watering. Place upside down near fans or open windows.
- Failure causes: Rot (blackened base), mold growth. Never return to displays while damp.
Water Quality
- Best: Rainwater, aquarium water, or filtered tap. Avoid distilled (lacks minerals) and softened water (high salts).
- Chlorine sensitivity: Let tap water sit 24 hours before use. Brown tips indicate chemical sensitivity.
5 Common Myths
Air plants need no water because all the moisture they absorb is from the air.
Although air plants do benefit from absorbing humidity through trichomes present on their leaves, they need to be soaked in water regularly to stay hydrated. With humidity levels typically ranging from 30% to 50% indoors, the moisture present in the air is insufficient. Plants without weekly immersion watering dehydrate beyond the point where trichomes or the conditions of the air can provide enough moisture, resulting in tightly curled leaves, stunted growth, or death. While trichomes allow water to be absorbed by the plant, they cannot replace the root-zone watering which the plant would get in an adequate environment.
Air plants can live in the dark since they are naturally found growing in the understory of trees.
Although they are tolerant of shady conditions, air plants require bright, indirect light to perform photosynthesis. In deep shade, plants will exhibit etiolation - a state of growth where they elongate abnormally in search of light. Help your air plant grow healthy by providing at least 12 hours of filtered sunlight each day. If there is not enough light, the plant will not produce enough chlorophyll, which causes the plant's leaves to lose color and eventually leads it to die, which is not to say that the dark helps there growth as you may have heard.
Air plants thrive on distilled water because it is pure and has no chemicals.
However, distilled water does not contain any essential minerals, such as calcium and magnesium, that air plants need for critical cellular functions. Over time, the air plants' nutrient pool diminishes, leading to visible plant deficiencies (e.g., brown leaf tips, lack of pup growth) and stunting healthy growth. Filtered tap or rainwater provides air plants with some of the beneficial minerals needed while still avoiding harmful industrial chemicals. This misconception about distilled water begins when people do not fully understand what 'pure' water means and the important role of minerals for plants in activating enzymes and regulating growth.
Planting air plants in soil helps them grow because you are giving them conventional nutrients from the soil.
Roots "rot" in soil because air plant roots have evolved to only attach to surfaces in the air and function in a management of plant moisture from the atmosphere. With air plants in soil the constant contact with soil moisture creates a suffocating wet condition that promotes root rot and fungal disease. Instead, affix them to porous wood surfaces, or onto a rock. This confusion happens by taking terrestrial plant thinking to deprecated forms of epiphytic plants which evolved and grow in the absence of soil attached to trees and rock.
When the plant blooms, it indicates the time of death of the plant, thus you should remove the flowers before the plant seeds.
Blooming is normal in the lifecycle of the plant, which is the plant grown flowers so it can create pups. The mother plant dies very slowly (over the course of years, 1-3) after it blooms so that it can produce new pups after several years of declining. If you prevent the plant from blooming (that's flower production) by withholding light or nutrients this removes it from the reproductive cycle. The myth blurs a normal senescence as an immediate death, and it disregards the production of the pups because plants benefit from them.
Conclusion
Once you have an understanding of the three 'core needs' for air plants, light, watering, and air flow, taking care of air plants will be a fairly simple process. These three essential elements are the fundamentals for healthy growth, and disregarding any one of them can lead to trouble. Long-term monitoring will keep your air plants healthy year after year.
*Observation* is the most efficient direction of care. If a plant's leaves are curling, that indicates the plant is thirsty. If its color is pale, that means something is wrong. In other words, the plants communicate their needs because they are complete, and when we recognize and acknowledge those signals, caring for plants becomes second nature. Overall, I learned that every plant has its own tastes (likes/dislikes), which I came to realize by paying close attention.
Embrace the gratifying growth cycle that entails going from tiny pups to beautiful blooms. Each phase is full of beauty and pleasure. After the flowers develop and the mother has died, new generations emerge. Each season brings the cycle of their lives, and each rebirth provides a living collection.
Try your new care rhythm within safe parameters! Experiment with different watering frequencies or placement methods. You should see what works in your environment. Routines will naturally form in personal practice. My practices have evolved from years of felt experimentation, filled with joy!
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Frequently Asked Questions
What is the proper watering technique for air plants?
Air plants require weekly soaking in room-temperature water for 20-60 minutes. After soaking, shake excess water and dry upside down completely within 4 hours to prevent rot. Misting supplements hydration but doesn't replace thorough soaking.
Where should I place my air plants indoors?
Position plants near east or west-facing windows for bright indirect light. Avoid direct afternoon sun that causes scorching. Maintain airflow around displays and keep away from heating/cooling vents. Ideal spots include open terrariums or mounted displays.
Can air plants survive in low-light environments?
While air plants tolerate lower light, insufficient light causes pale leaves and stunted growth. Supplement with full-spectrum artificial lighting positioned 6-12 inches above plants for 12 hours daily. Rotate plants weekly for even exposure.
How do I know if my air plant is healthy?
Healthy air plants show these characteristics:
- Silver-green leaves with fuzzy trichomes
- Slight leaf curvature without tight curling
- Steady growth and pup production
- Vibrant blooms during maturity stage
- Firm base without dark discoloration
What type of fertilizer is safe for air plants?
Use bromeliad or orchid fertilizer diluted to 1/4 strength. Apply monthly during spring and summer by adding to soak water. Avoid urea-based formulas and never use undiluted fertilizers. Discontinue during blooming periods.
Should I remove dead leaves from my air plant?
Gently remove completely dry brown leaves at the base to prevent rot and improve airflow. Never cut green or partially green leaves, as this damages living tissue. Use tweezers for precise removal without harming healthy growth.
How do air plants reproduce?
Air plants produce 2-8 pups at their base during or after blooming. These offsets grow while attached to the mother plant for 4-12 months before becoming independent. The mother plant gradually declines after blooming while nourishing new pups.
What are common mistakes that kill air plants?
These practices commonly cause air plant death:
- Planting in soil causing root rot
- Insufficient drying after watering
- Using distilled or softened water
- Exposure to freezing temperatures
- Placing in enclosed containers without ventilation
Can I keep air plants outdoors?
Air plants thrive outdoors in USDA zones 9-11 with protection. Hang under tree canopies for filtered light and shelter from heavy rain. Bring indoors when temperatures drop below 50°F or during extreme weather conditions.
How long does an air plant live?
Air plants typically live 2-5 years depending on species. They bloom once during their lifetime, then produce pups over 1-3 years before declining. With proper care, each generation continues through pup propagation indefinitely.
