How does pruning differ for dwarf fruit trees?

Special pruning techniques are required for the dwarf fruit trees, which differ from the standard kinds. Due to their small size, the training must be of the espalier type, requiring intensive spur treatment to obtain crops in confined quarters. The vigorous rootstocks are subject to heavy shaping, while the genetic dwarfs require gentle treatment. I have had dwarf orchards for twelve years and have learned these special techniques.

Espalier training for dwarf trees starts at planting time. I set up trellis systems right away and train the branches out horizontally. During the growing season, I give the ties changes in placement each month, which inhibits upward growth. Soft ties hold the limbs and avoid any injury to the bark. The result of this method has been threefold, resulting in an increase in dwarf apple production within limited garden space.

Features suggestive of young spur renewal prevent the decline of dwarf forms. Whereas the standards keep their spurs over a long period of years, 20% of mine are replaced each year. Their dark wood and sparse buds easily recognize the unproductive spurs, and the correct process is to cut them back to younger laterals, stimulating the growth of new fruiting wood.

Rootstocks determine pruning vigor. M9 apples require only light shaping, while M26, which is more vigorous, requires summer heading. I prune my M26 dwarf pears three times a year. I always leave 4 to 6 leaves on new shoots to balance growth and fruiting.

Summer Pinching: Height is controlled without development. I pinch with my thumb and fore-finger the tips of shoots above the fifth leaf to change the energy from developing length to developing fruit. This is done every six weeks to keep the height at an effective limit of 6 to 8 feet.

Read the full article: Fruit Tree Pruning Guide: When and How to Prune