Fruit Tree Pruning Guide: When and How to Prune

The pruning of fruit trees is an essential part of keeping trees healthy and productive for a number of years. It removes dead and crowded branches so that the sunshine can reach the fruit-bearing limbs. If done properly, pruning directs nutrients toward the developing fruit buds, rather than allowing unnecessary growth. It prevents diseases by promoting air circulation through the canopy.

Better quality fruit results from pruning because it balances the vigor of growth and fruiting. The congested limbs are competing with each other for available energy and consequently produce smaller crops. I have seen neglected old trees come into their prime after strategic pruning. This guide covers the times, tools, and methods for pruning various types of trees.

We concentrate on practical tips for beginners and experienced gardeners. Find out when to prune apples versus peaches. Discover the tools that will make clean cuts without damaging the bark. Understand how every cut you make will influence the future form and production of the tree.

Sanitizing tools prevents diseases from spreading through your orchard. I have seen bacterial canker wipe out entire rows of trees when the pruners were not sanitized. After each tree, dip the blades of the pruners in disinfectant. When using home disinfectant, mix one part bleach with nine parts water. This kills the pathogens before making the next cut.

Pruning shears require sharpening monthly to obviate raggedness of cut, which invites disease. Test for sharpness on paper. If it tears instead of cutting, sharpen it at once. Saws require filing twice a year. Dull tools crush the bark tissue instead of cutting it cleanly.

Prolong the life of your tools by drying them thoroughly after cleaning to avoid rusting. I store mine in the toolbox with silica gel packs. Moisture causes pitting on metal surfaces, and pitted blades provide a breeding ground for bacteria. Lubricate the joints monthly for smooth operation. Sticky mechanisms can lead to unsafe slippage during the cutting process.

Always designate separate tools for diseased trees. I have specially red-handled pruners for cutting out infected trees. Never use these tools for healthy trees. After cutting any fire blight or silver leaf fungus, the tools must be soaked in disinfec­tant for ten minutes before being put away. Always rinse the tools before putting them away.

Deeply water after 24 hours of pruning trees. This watering will supply nourishing materials to the tissues that are to heal. I soak the ground to a depth of 12 inches around my orchard trees. Container trees require water until it drains through the holes in the pot. This needed water starts the recovery of the trees.

Apply a 4-inch mulch layer, starting 6 inches from the base of the trunk. This prevents rot and conserves moisture. Use shredded bark or wood chips. Never pile mulch against the bark. I renew this protective cover every year, since it decomposes.

Trees have an innate ability to seal their wounds, which produces callus tissue. Do not seal or paint the cuts. I have witnessed cuts heal completely on their own, with no interference. Just trust this biological process. Keep an eye on the cut for excessive sap flow or discoloration, which may indicate trouble.

Observe the site for new growth within 2-3 weeks; this indicates recovery has taken place. Look for evidence of bud swell and new shoots. If no growth appears after the first month, re-evaluate your pruning methods or the state of the tree. Healthy trees will exhibit visible evidence of recovery.

The vigorous growth of apple and pear trees is incited by winter pruning, while peach trees require summer pruning to control size. Seasonal planning of orchard work is made easier when temperature limits are considered. For example, do not prune when the temperature is below 25°F. Frozen wood splinters easily.

Stone fruits require careful timing. This means summer pruning, after harvest, of cherries and peaches. This later pruning avoids the bacterial blights common in dormant pruning. I prune my peach trees in July. Avoid pruning while the active sap is flowing to minimize unnecessary stress.

Comply with local wildlife protection laws. In Germany, heavy pruning is prohibited from March to September. These precautions are for the breeding of birds. Check the regulations in your area before making major cuts. I adjust my schedule to comply with conservation periods.

Prune to ensure tree survival and law compliance. Dormant season for most pome fruits. Summer for stone fruits. Always consider heat extremes and animal cycles. The trees will then respond with improved growth and increased yields.

Use the proper pruning tools for the branch sizes you are pruning for a neat job. Use hand shears for small branches, those under .75-inch in diameter. Use lopping shears for medium-sized branches, up to 1.5 inches in diameter. Use pruning saws for the larger limbs. Chainsaws are for branches over 4 inches in diameter.

Thinning cuts eliminate entire branches at their base, resulting in a thinning of the canopy. Heading cuts reduce the length of branches above their buds, causing bushier growth beneath. I thin crowded apple trees each year, but head young pear branches to get them into shape.

Make cuts at 45-degree angles sloping away from buds. This sheds water, preventing rot. Position blades parallel to the branch. I teach this technique at workshops. Precise angles help wounds heal faster by preventing moisture from being trapped against the skin.

Chainsaw operation necessitates safety gear: cut-resistant gloves, hearing protection, and eye protection. Always check for chain tension and lubrication before using. I never use chainsaws overhead. Maintain secure footing and clear escape routes during cuts.

I give pome fruits such as apples a different treatment than stone fruits such as peaches. I prune my apples in winter if I want them to have a standard, central-leader tree shape. Peaches should be summer pruned when the crop is harvested to reduce the risk of disease. I time all of my orchard work according to the type of tree.

Central-lead training is essential for young trees. Select one strong stem and establish the scaffold branches spaced uniformly about the tree. For branches, I leave spaces of 6 to 10 inches apart vertically. Spacers are used to create angles of 45 to 60 degrees. Remove the competing leaders each year to maintain the strong framework that has been established.

Renewal pruning gently revitalizes overgrown trees using a step-by-step approach. In the first year, cut out any dead branch growth. In the second year, thin the upper branch canopy. In the third year, the height of the tree lessens. No more than 30% of the tree growth should be removed at one time. This 3-year process has restored overgrown trees to function.

Pruning mature trees needs safety precautions. Use pole saws instead of ladders to prune high branches. Check for dead branches before cutting. Wear hard hats and eye protection. It is wise to rope off working areas to keep people away from falling branches.

Pruning fruit trees properly requires you to pay the same attention to three things: the time of pruning, the method of pruning and the aftercare. These must be perfect and your trees will respond with health. For twenty seasons I have followed this rule and assure you that it is sure in producing healthy trees and good crops.

Forget any general rule. Apples require winter pruning, and the peach trees must be pruned in summer. Citrus trees are best pruned to a light shape in the spring. Use the pruning methods that are most suited to the tree under consideration. My Golden Delicious apple tree has made great strides since I stopped treating it like my Elberta peach tree.

Regular pruning builds disease resistance over time. Proper cuts heal cleanly. Air circulation is improved. The risks of fungi are reduced. My oldest trees withstand blights that affect untreated orchards nearby. Annual care prompts productivity for decades.

Start with young trees; it will help you to gain confidence. Practice your shaping cuts on one-year-old saplings. When you can make the desired cuts with skill, graduate to the large specimens. I started with one little dwarf apple. Now I take care of fifty mixed trees. Start small, but start today.