Effective Lawn Grub Treatment Guide

Grub control begins with understanding that grubs are beetle larvae that eat the roots of grass. Japanese beetles and chafers, for example, will be the instigators. The patches that appear on your lawn will be brown, dead areas that are actively spreading. I have seen lawns neglected and losing whole sections in just a matter of weeks. Quick action will stop any irrevocable damage to the turf.

This guide takes you step-by-step through identifying grub problems and the best solutions to address them. You will learn tricks I use to inspect grub damage for a professional fertilizing job. I will tell you about chemicals and non-chemical treatments. From my experience, catching them early will save you both money and time. We can work together to restore your lawn using proven methods.

When selecting products with chlorantraniliprole, bees are protected, while grubs are eliminated. This active ingredient will kill targeted pests without harming pollinators when applied correctly. I always recommend it for areas with backyard beehives or butterfly gardens. Always look for this active ingredient on the label if eliminating harmful insects while protecting bees is a concern.

Do not allow pets and children into treated areas until the grass has completely dried, which typically takes several hours, depending on the weather conditions. I keep my dogs inside until the spray treatment is completed and until the irrigation water has been absorbed. Also, use temporary fencing to give clear boundaries as an added precaution.

Before treatment, mow the lawn to remove flowering weeds that attract bees. Short grass exposes the grubs better to the insecticides. Store unused products in a locked cabinet that is inaccessible to children. I have combination locks on my garden shed for added safety.

Once the grubs are gone, it is time to begin reseeding right away, to prevent soil erosion. I use Scotts® EZ Seed® for its beneficial mulch coating, which protects the seeds. Prepare the soil by raking out the dead spots and loosening the top layer of soil. This will provide the ideal seed-to-soil contact for faster seed germination.

Lightly mist new plants in the early morning, 2 or 3 times daily, to keep the soil moist but not soggy. I have a small sprayer for watering that produces a gentle spray of water. I set my alarm clock to an early time to get up and water while we have hot weather. Keeping the soil in a very moist condition is crucial for developing strong roots.

Hold off on applying fertilizers until the new grass covers at least 50% of the area with a green color. Fertilizing too soon will burn the tender seedlings. Apply fertilizers that release nutrients slowly, such as Lawn Solutions Premium Fertilizer, at the recommended rates. I like to measure nitrogen precisely when applying fertilizers and use the spreaders to obtain a uniform application over recovering areas.

Look at your lawn at dawn or dusk when grubs are moving near the soil surface, where they are easiest to detect. I carry a flashlight for my evening inspections, as this is their time of highest activity. Multiple samples should be taken in different lawn areas, including edges and locations in the center of the lawn. Attention should be given to areas that exhibit signs of early damage, such as spongy or soft spots.

Take your 12x12-inch pieces of turf and cut them with a spade shovel. Peel this back like a carpet and check the soil underneath. Count all C larvae that have a white body and brown heads. I use a trowel to sift the roots and get an accurate identification for all specimens.

If you find a threshold of 6-10+ grubs per square foot, then it is time to treat the area immediately. This threshold is high, indicating a severe level of infestation that requires immediate action. Be sure to take counts of different regions of the same lawn. My field notes help me keep track of which areas are problematic and require remedial treatment.

Grub damage feels soft underfoot, then starts browning because roots are being eaten. This is different from drought stress, where the soil remains solid. I teach clients "the tug test." Grasp a handful of grass. If the grass comes up like loose carpet, grubs have most likely severed roots.

If you see activity from animals, it indicates a serious infestation. Raccoons and skunks dig all night looking for grubs. Birds pull turf and uproot chunks. They congregate in the worst patches. My neighbor ignored these signs and lost half of his lawn last summer.

Damage timing follows grub life cycles. Brown spots in late summer come after a few months of root feeding. Spring damage means that the overwintered larvae went back to eating. There are differences regionally: Japanese beetles are worse July and August, whereas the grubs of chafers do damage a little later in the summer. Make notes of your first damage threat dates every year.

Preventive treatments are most effective when applied in spring before the eggs have hatched. Products such as imidacloprid create a protective barrier effect, which kills the larvae when they emerge from their eggs. I apply these products in May using a broadcast spreader across the entire lawn. Curative options work for active infestations late in the summer but must be timed correctly for maximum effectiveness.

Apply all treatments explained immediately after, with 0.5 inches of irrigation to activate the chemicals. Use a rain gauge to measure your watering accurately. Granular applications require a spreader calibration, while hose-type applications require the right selection of nozzle size. I recommend using battery-type spray tanks on large areas, if necessary, to achieve even coverage and prevent leaving mini-dry regions.

To protect bees and other pollinators, choose chlorantraniliprole products, such as GrubEx. This material will kill grubs but has no adverse effect on the health of bees visiting nearby blooms. I use these types of products exclusively in the garden near my apiary. Always follow directions on the label regarding mixing and application rates to protect beneficial insects.

Spotting grubs early can be done with monthly inspections at their peak seasons. Suppose you check your lawn in May and August using the tug test method I mentioned. In that case, the problems will be caught early. They can be cured easily, rather than permitting extensive damage that requires costly repairs later. The periodical inspections help develop good smart lawn care habits.

The cultural practices you incorporate along with the chemical and natural treatments are key to keeping results long-term. I include chlorantraniliprole with my application to nematodes and also follow proper mowing heights. This layered form of attack is significantly more effective at stopping cyclical invasion than any single method used alone could ever be.

Apply treatments in timing with grub life cycles for maximum effectiveness. Apply preventatives when eggs hatch in the spring and curatives when grubs are feeding near the surface in the fall. Apply at times that coincide with the beetle's flight in your region for maximum effectiveness.

Practice correct recovery protocols post-treatment. Reseed any damaged areas immediately and water them thoroughly daily until they are established. Your lawn will spring back healthier and stronger when you follow these fundamentals.... I've seen neglected lawns miraculously rejuvenate within weeks with these protocols.