10 Best Erosion Control Plants for Your Landscape

Plants for erosion control provide nature's first line of defense against the detrimental effects of soil erosion. When harsh winds and rains hit an unprotected land area, a layer of precious topsoil is quickly washed away. The loss of soil deprives the earth of vital plant nutrients. The base or root system of plants acts as a binding agent, holding soil particles together and reducing the likelihood of soil loosening from its roots. The leaf mass of plants further dampens the impact of rain, thus reducing runoff.

The guide discusses the best types of vegetation that can stabilize vulnerable areas. It provides specific criteria for selecting species based on root form and relative needs. It outlines practical ways of planting plants that will ensure their successful establishment and considers the native plants particularly valuable. These will restore the soil's health naturally with minimal maintenance effort.

To find the right erosion control plants, determine site conditions. In dry soils, use plants like Baptisia, which have deep, tapering roots that penetrate to water sources. Wet spots yield the best results from the fibrous, clustered roots of sedges, which hold the surface soil in place. When matching roots with soil moisture, you are ensuring stability.

Evergreens provide all-season protection, especially on shaded slopes. Junipers hold soil during the winter when other plants are asleep. For seasonal hardiness, use native plants that correspond to their respective USDA hardiness zones. Switchgrass thrives in the winters of zone 4, while Sweetspire stands the heat of zone 9.

Transitional areas involving sun and shade require versatile plantings. Virginia Sweetspire will do well in either case. The spreading roots help anchor the erosion-prone soil, while the white blooms in summer provide beauty. Dogwood can also be used in borders, as these plants can withstand fluctuations in light without compromising their ability to combat soil erosion.

For success in erosion control, root depth is the most important aspect. Taproots go down more than 4 feet, securing soil against drought. Fibrous mats obtain their anchorage in shallow soil, less than 1 foot, fixing surface soil. For maximum security, check your conditions to conform to these root structure types.

The steepness of the slope will dictate your plant choices. Steep slopes that exceed 33% should contain deep-rooted shrubs, such as Dogwood, to hold the high places. In contrast, gentle slopes under 15% can be planted with low-growing groundcovers, such as Sedum. Always check the slope before planting to ensure the ground is not washed away in heavy rains.

Soil textures need particular adaptations. Clay soils require moisture-tolerant plants, such as Sweetspire, which will not drown. Sandy soils require drought-resistant species, such as Sedum, commonly known as stonecrop. Native plants thrive better than all others, as they are well-suited to our local climate extremes with minimal assistance.

Prepare the soil using the no-till technique to preserve its natural structure. Put approximately 2-3 inches of compost in a layer without tilling. The beneficial microorganisms and earthworms will be protected. On slopes, terraced planting pockets will be created to manage water. Heavy clay can be improved by mixing with sand at the rate of 1:1.

Proper spacing helps plants develop strong root systems. Place groundcovers 12-18 inches apart for quick coverage. Provide shrubs 3-5 feet between plants so their roots can spread out. Plant grasses in clusters of 3-5 plants for immediate soil protection.

Timing is a crucial factor in root growth. Plant cool-season grasses in the spring before summer heat sets in. Shrubs should be planted in the fall so that roots will grow during the winter. Summer planting should be avoided except in cool regions. Roots establish themselves best when temperatures are moderate.

Choose the mulch to suit the angle. If on a slope, straw mulch is the proper kind. It requires protection from jute netting. Take wood chips 2 inches thick in the flat areas. Gravel mulch, however, is well-suited for succulent beds in arid climates. Each has its own way of combating erosion.

Creeping Juniper holds sandy slopes in place with spreading surface roots 6-8' in spread. This evergreen plant does well in zones 3-9, adding 6-12" per year. Its dense mats withstand the severe winter cold, protecting the soil throughout the year. Switchgrass affords competition to steep slopes with its deep rhizomes reaching 5-7' below the surface. It grows from 4-6' in height and tolerates floods and droughts well, being suitable for zones 4-9.

Virginia sweet spire handles wet soils through suckering roots, sending out shoots 3-5' apart. Ideal for shady areas in zones 5-9 and spreading 3-5' wide in two years. Wild Ginger produces fibrous mats to cover the ground in moist shady areas in zones 3-8. It creeps about a foot per year and suppresses weed growth with its heart-shaped leaves.

Blue Wild Indigo propagates deep, woody taproots that descend over 6 feet deep, anchoring clay soils for decades, but is slower-growing yet drought-resistant in zones 3-9. The Soft Rush plant thrives in flooded conditions, providing effective water filtration of pollutants in zones 4-9. This year-round evergreen plant grows 2-4 feet in height in mild climates and binds the soil with fibrous mats.

Daylilies provide ornamentation from fleshy roots that bind sunny slopes in zones 3-10, spreading 1-2 feet per year. Red Osier Dogwood controls streambanks with stolon roots that thrive in zones 2-8. Mountainmint spreads 3 feet yearly and repels deer on dry slopes in zones 4-8. Stonecrop survives extreme drought in zones 3-11, forming shallow mats in only 2 inches of soil.

Vegetation combats erosion through specialized root systems that are adapted to their respective environments. Taproots function as pegs that penetrate deeply into the layers of the soil, holding all fast in place. Fibrous mats operate differently and produce superficial nets which catch the soil grains. These roots, due to their grip, hold the soil in position, preventing it from shifting during heavy rains or winds.

In addition, the leaves and branches of canopies reduce soil splash by forty percent by intercepting raindrops. This upper layer of plant matter also decreases the speed of air flow at the ground surface by fifty to seventy percent. Evergreens give this protection throughout the year, particularly during the winter storm season.

The decomposition of roots produces organic matter that improves soil structure. This process enhances the soil's ability to absorb water and creates stable aggregates. Fungi produce a sticky substance that binds soil particles. Earthworms then tunnel through the soil, improving drainage and aeration.

Microbial partnerships significantly enhance soil stabilization. Beneficial fungi establish associations with plant roots. These networks produce biological adhesives that bind soil aggregates. This living reinforcement makes slopes resistant to erosive forces.

Native plants provide long-lasting erosion solutions due to their amazing deep-rooting systems. They exceed temporary fixes because they continue to ameliorate soil structure over a period of years. This natural method produces self-sustaining landscapes that become more stable from year to year. Your land becomes protected permanently.

Choosing strategic plants turns weak zones into thriving ecosystems. Choosing switchgrass, sweetspire, or other suitable species for your slope and soil type yields spectacular results. The advantages of this method are improved soil conservation, water quality, and wildlife habitats.

Begin your adventure in erosion control with just 2-3 of our recommended plants: Creeping Juniper (for sandy slopes) or Dogwood (in areas near waterways). This first planting grows very quickly, giving tangible results. Reduced runoff and increased soil stability will be sent your way shortly.